Nairobi: Dust, Dala-Dalas, and a Seriously Good Chai

okay, so nairobi. it’s…a lot. i landed with absolutely zero expectations, just a crumpled boarding pass and a vague memory of someone telling me it was "up and coming." which, honestly, feels like code for "prepare for chaos."

first off, the air. it’s not bad, exactly. it’s just…present. a warm hug of *dust and something floral i can’t quite place. i just checked and it’s hovering around twenty-two degrees, with a humidity level that makes your hair do things you didn’t know it could. feels like twenty-one point five though, if that makes any sense. the pressure’s normal, apparently, which is reassuring. i’m a digital nomad, remember? gotta keep an eye on the atmospheric stuff for optimal wifi signal reception.

my accommodation is…an experience. it’s a guesthouse run by a woman named Mama Njeri who communicates primarily through smiles and incredibly strong tea. the walls are thin, the plumbing is questionable, and i’m pretty sure i saw a gecko doing yoga in the bathroom. but it’s ten bucks a night, and honestly, i’m here for the vibe, not the five-star amenities.

people keep telling me to be careful, especially around the city centre. someone told me that pickpockets are particularly fond of tourists with bewildered expressions (guilty). i overheard a group of expats at a cafe - they were debating the merits of Uber versus the matatus (those crazy minibuses). apparently, the matatus are faster, cheaper, and a guaranteed adrenaline rush. i’m leaning towards Uber, tbh. you can find some reviews on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g294206-Nairobi_Nairobi_Province-Vacations.html.

food-wise, i’ve been living on nyama choma (grilled meat) and ugali (a maize flour porridge). it’s…filling. i tried a street food stall yesterday, and i’m pretty sure i accidentally ordered something involving goat intestines. it wasn’t bad, just…unexpected. i’ve also discovered a serious addiction to Kenyan coffee. it’s strong, rich, and keeps me functioning on approximately four hours of sleep. if you're a coffee fiend, check out this local guide: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Coffee&find_loc=Nairobi.

my neighbors are…loud. in a good way? there’s always music playing, kids shouting, and the constant rumble of traffic. if you get bored, Mombasa and Nakuru are just a short dala-dala ride away. i’m told the wildlife parks are incredible, but i haven’t ventured that far yet. i’m still trying to master the art of crossing the street* without getting run over.

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i heard from a bartender that there’s a secret speakeasy hidden behind a barber shop in Westlands. apparently, you have to know the password, which changes daily.

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someone warned me about the traffic on Thika Road. they said it’s a “parking lot disguised as a highway.” i believe them.

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another expat told me that the best way to experience Nairobi is to just “get lost.” which, honestly, feels like pretty solid advice.

overall, nairobi is…overwhelming. exhilarating. confusing. and surprisingly charming. it’s not a place you come to for relaxation; it’s a place you come to for an adventure. and i’m definitely getting one. check out this forum for more local insights: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/thorntree/forums/africa/kenya. i'm off to find that speakeasy…wish me luck. and send coffee.