Ogbomosho: Dust, Drums, and a Whole Lot of Confusion
okay, so, where do i even begin? i just landed back at the hotel - which, let’s be honest, is basically a slightly less depressing version of a roadside motel - and my brain feels like it’s been run over by a particularly enthusiastic ox. ogbomosho. nigeria. it’s… intense. seriously. i’d been reading about it for weeks, trying to get a handle on this place, and nothing really prepared me for the actual feeling of it.
first off, the heat. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it’s a proper savanna heat, you know? thick and clinging. i’m sweating just thinking about it. i’m pretty sure my phone is melting. i’m trying to find a decent wifi signal, but it’s like chasing a mirage. someone told me that the hotel’s internet is notoriously unreliable, which, honestly, is just… perfect.
this place has a history, obviously. like, really old. it started as a tiny outpost back in the 1600s, basically a bunch of settlers huddled under an Ajagbon tree. then the Fulani invasions happened, and it somehow survived. it’s apparently produced five Aare Onakakanfo - that’s like, the Yoruba equivalent of a generalissimo, right? - more than any other town. it’s a bit of a warrior vibe, which is… noticeable. i saw a few guys with impressive rifles just wandering around the market.
and the markets! oh my god, the markets. Wazobia, Atenda, Farmers’ Supermarket… it’s a sensory overload. mountains of yams, cassava, maize, everything you can imagine. i tried to buy some aso oke - that traditional Yoruba cloth - but i got completely lost in the chaos. i heard that the best deals are haggled for very aggressively, so i just kinda nodded and smiled and backed away slowly. i’m not cut out for that kind of thing.
there’s a central mosque with this massive square tower, which is pretty impressive, and the Soun’s palace - supposedly where Ogunlola, the founder, used to hang out. it’s all very… imposing. i also stumbled across the American Baptist Church of Nigeria’s seminary. it’s a strange juxtaposition, you know? ancient history and modern religion, all crammed together.
if you get bored, ilorin is just a short drive away, and oyo town and ede are not too far either. i’m hoping to catch a bus to ilorin tomorrow, but i’m not holding my breath. the buses here are… an experience.
people are mostly Yoruba, but there’s a mix of Nigerians and West Africans too. they seem to be farmers, traders, artisans, and… well, warriors, apparently. the population is a bit of a mystery - estimates range wildly. i’m guessing somewhere around a million, but who knows? it’s a rapidly growing city, which is both exciting and a little terrifying.
check out the reviews on TripAdvisor, if you’re brave enough. i’m pretty sure i’ll be needing a serious lie-down after this trip. i heard that the food is good, but i’m honestly just trying to find a clean toilet.
seriously, though, ogbomosho is… something. it’s chaotic, dusty, and utterly captivating. i’m not sure i’d recommend it to everyone, but if you’re looking for an adventure, and you don’t mind a little bit of madness, then give it a shot. just bring plenty of sunscreen and a strong stomach. and maybe a translator. and a really good map. and a therapist.
link: https://www.oyostate.gov.ng/
link: https://www.tripadvisor.com/
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