Okay, Okay, Okay... Kagoshima is Weird (and I Mean That in a Good Way)

okay, so i just stumbled into Kagoshima. honestly, i didn’t even plan to come here. it was a last-minute detour after a gig in Fukuoka fell through. a total fluke. and now? i’m kinda obsessed.

first off, the air. it’s…thick. not in a bad way, just…present. like you can taste the humidity. i just checked and it’s hovering around twelve degrees, but feels like it’s trying to climb into your lungs. ninety-six percent humidity, apparently. which explains why my hair is doing things i didn’t know it could do. the pressure’s a bit wonky too, feels like my ears are constantly adjusting.

and the people! oh, the people. they’re…intense. in the best way. super friendly, but they look at you like you’re a puzzle they’re trying to solve. i was trying to find a decent ramen place (because, duh) and this old woman just grabbed my arm and started pointing and yelling directions in rapid-fire Japanese. i understood approximately zero percent of it, but i followed her anyway, and ended up at this tiny hole-in-the-wall that was amazing. seriously, the best ramen i’ve had in ages. you can find some reviews on Yelp.

someone told me that Sakurajima, the *volcano across the bay, is a bit of a local obsession. apparently, it’s constantly grumbling and occasionally throws a tantrum. which, honestly, mood. it’s a pretty dramatic backdrop to everything. i spent a whole afternoon just staring at it, trying to figure out what it was thinking.

my accommodation is…interesting. it’s a traditional ryokan, which is basically a japanese inn. super minimalist, tatami mats everywhere, and a futon on the floor. i’m not sure my back is going to forgive me, but it’s definitely an experience. i overheard a couple arguing about it - something about “too much kneeling” and “where’s the proper bed?” - classic. you can find some options on TripAdvisor.

“Don’t trust the melon pan. It looks amazing, but it’s always stale.”

that’s what a guy at a bar told me last night. apparently, the melon pan situation in Kagoshima is a serious issue. i haven’t tried it yet, but now i’m terrified.

if you get bored, Kumamoto and Miyazaki are just a short train ride away. i’m thinking of heading to Miyazaki next, just to see what all the fuss is about. i’ve been reading about the beaches there on Japan Guide.

honestly, i have no idea what i’m doing here. i’m just wandering around, getting lost, and eating all the things. and you know what? it’s perfect. i heard from a local that the gardens near Sengan-en are worth a visit, but be prepared for crowds. i’m gonna check it out tomorrow. i’m also trying to find a good record store, but that’s proving to be a challenge.

“The best yakitori is always found near the train station. Always.”

that’s another piece of wisdom i picked up. i’m definitely going to investigate.

and the shops*! oh my god, the shops. vintage kimonos, weird snacks, tiny ceramic figurines… it’s a treasure trove of bizarre and wonderful things. i’m already regretting not bringing an extra suitcase. i’m also trying to learn a few basic japanese phrases, but it’s slow going. “arigato” and “konnichiwa” are about the extent of my vocabulary right now.

“Don’t make eye contact with the fishermen. They don’t like it.”

apparently, that’s a thing. i’ll try to remember that.

okay, i’m rambling now. i need to go find some more ramen. and maybe avoid the melon pan. wish me luck.