Long Read

Onitsha: A Messy Love Letter to a Polluted, Chaotic Gem

@Lyla Bennet2/6/2026blog

so here's the thing about onitsha. it's... well, it's a mess. a glorious, chaotic, absolutely overwhelming mess. i just checked and it's... there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 26.46 degrees, feels like 26.46. humid as hell, but hey, that's africa for you. the air hangs heavy, thick with the scent of the river and something... industrial. it's the kind of place that hits you like a wave the second you step off the plane. you can feel the energy, the sheer, unadulterated hustle. it's not polished. it's not quiet. it's a city that breathes hard, moves fast, and doesn't apologize for it.

i mean, look at the market. onitsha main market. they call it the largest in africa. largest in africa. that's not an exaggeration, it's a fact. it sprawls, it sprawls like a living, breathing beast. you walk in, and it's sensory overload. the cacophony of voices, the kaleidoscope of colors, the sheer volume of goods piled high - it's insane. someone told me that if you get bored, [cities] are just a short drive away. asaba, the capital across the bridge, lagos is a few hours south, abuja is a bit further. but honestly? you'll probably be too busy getting lost in the market or dodging the river traffic to care. the city itself is the main attraction, a constant, pulsating energy.

historically? it's got layers. founded by benin adventurers, a slave trade hub, a british colonial center. the river bridge to asaba, built in '65, cemented its role as the commercial heart. geographically? it sits right there, at the very tip of the navigable niger, a crucial junction. the climate? tropical savanna, wet season march-oct, dry season nov-feb. hot, muggy, thunderstorms in march/april and late sept/oct. the river port is a defining feature, a lifeline. but let's not gloss over the elephant in the room: the pollution. ranked number one most polluted city by who in 2016. yeah, it's a thing. you'll see the haze, feel the grit in your teeth. it's part of the charm, i guess? or maybe it's just... there.

culture? vibrant? no, not vibrant. it's just... there. igbo-speaking, fiercely so. nollywood distribution hub. a centre of commerce, industry, education. the people? they hustle. they survive. they thrive in the chaos. the cuisine? the search results didn't spill the beans, but i'm sure the street food is something else. the cathedral, the historical sites - they whisper stories of a complex past. but honestly, the real story is written in the daily grind, the market stalls, the river traffic, the constant hum of life.

so what's it like? it's overwhelming. it's exhausting. it's utterly, completely, unapologetically onitsha. it's a city that demands your attention, your patience, and maybe a good air filter. it's not for the faint of heart or the easily overwhelmed. but if you can handle the chaos, the heat, the pollution, the sheer, unadulterated mess? you'll find a unique, pulsating energy that's hard to find anywhere else. it's a love letter to the messy, the chaotic, the undeniably alive. just maybe pack some antihistamines for the haze.

Onitsha Market

Niger River

Onitsha Street


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About the author: Lyla Bennet

Exploring the weird and wonderful corners of the internet.

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