oran's gritty edges: a photographer's caffeine-fueled shoot

or, so this is oran. i rolled in with a backpack full of lenses and zero sleep, which might be my default setting. as a freelance photographer who lives on espresso fumes and questionable street food, i'm always chasing that *perfect golden hour glow - but let me tell you, this city doesn't hand out pretty shots easily. you gotta dig for them.

i just peeked at the weather app and it's currently hovering at 12.5°C with that damp-in-your-bones humidity of 75%, so pack that light jacket unless you're into sweater weather. honestly? it's great for moody shots. the mediterranean light here does weird things when it's overcast - makes everything feel like a vintage film reel.

spent yesterday lurking around marseilles port at dawn. heard a grizzled fisherman muttering something about 'tourists ruining the catch' while i was setting up. told him i wasn't here for the fish. he just grunted and pointed toward the fort santa cruz ruins - said the best light hits those crumbling walls around 7am. pro tip: ignore the crowds near the lighthouse and climb that sketchy path behind the abandoned warehouse. worth the risk for the decaying architecture shots.

if you've seen enough of oran, hop in a ride and within an hour you can be in mostaganem for those blue-tiled alleys or tlemcen for the mountain backdrops. someone told me that the secret photo spots are all in the peripheral neighborhoods like sidi el houari - where the real vibe is. also heard whispers about a hidden rooftop bar overlooking the bay with zero tourists, but locals were tight-lipped about the exact location. might have to bribe someone with mint tea.

speaking of locals, i overheard this gem at café djazaïr: 'don't bother with the big galleries downtown. the real art is in the tags on the walls between place des martyrs and the old souk.' turns out there's this underground street artist collective using abandoned shop fronts as canvases. found a killer mural of a woman with algerian patterns woven through her hair yesterday. also, warning: some guy tried to sell me 'authentic' vintage film cameras for €200. looked like they were made of lego. avoid that guy.

for gear, i'm rocking my sony a7iii with a 35mm prime for tight alleys and a 70-200 for those distant harbor shots. battery life is trash here though - carry at least three spares. and pro tip: wear comfortable shoes. you'll be doing way more climbing than you expect in this city.

checking in at tripadvisor's oran spots for hidden gems, but honestly? the best shots aren't in the guidebooks. yelp's local eateries kept me fueled though - that place with the couscous with merguez*? fire. also bookmarked this algerian photography forum for insider tips. overall? oran's messy, unpredictable, and absolutely electric if you're willing to get lost.