Palembang, Indonesia: Sticky Humidity and the Ghosts of Ancient Kingdoms
okay, so palembang. i’m a botanist, right? usually i’m knee-deep in ferns and moss, cataloging obscure fungi. this? this was…different. i came here chasing rumors of a rare orchid, Dendrophylax lindenii, supposedly thriving in some forgotten temple ruins. didn’t find it, obviously. but i found…something else.
it’s…thick here. the air. i just checked and it’s clinging to you like a damp towel, a constant 96% humidity. twenty-four point four five degrees celsius, they say. feels like twenty-five. i’m pretty sure my hair is actively rebelling against me. i’m sweating just thinking about it. seriously, pack light, breathable fabrics. and a dehumidifier if you plan on staying longer than a week.
and the smells! not bad, not entirely. it’s a mix of river water, spices, something vaguely floral, and…well, let’s just say palembang has a character. i spent a good hour wandering around *Pusako Bendang, trying to identify the source of a particularly pungent aroma. ended up being durian. naturally.
“Don’t eat the street food after midnight,” a guy slurring his words told me at a warung. “The spirits get hungry.”
I’m not usually one for superstition, but…palembang has a vibe. a heavy, ancient vibe. it’s built on the Musi River, and you can feel the history in the water. it was once the capital of the Srivijaya empire, you know? a major trading hub. now? it’s a bustling city, but the past is everywhere.
I spent a day exploring the Balaputradewa Archaeological Site. it’s a bit overgrown, honestly. but the remnants of the ancient city are still visible. crumbling walls, fragments of statues…it’s hauntingly beautiful. someone told me that the site is cursed, that anyone who disturbs the ruins will be plagued by bad luck. probably just local folklore, but it added to the atmosphere.
“The old bridge? Don’t walk across it at night. They say the ghosts of the soldiers who died building it still patrol the planks.” another drunk guy advised me, waving his hand dramatically. “They don’t like tourists.”
I tried to find some decent coffee. seriously, a botanist needs her caffeine. yelp reviews were…mixed. apparently, Kopi Joen is the place to go, but be prepared for a wait. i ended up at a tiny little place near my guesthouse. the coffee was strong, bitter, and exactly what i needed.
if you get bored, Banyuasin and Ogan Ilir are just a short drive away. both offer different landscapes and experiences. Banyuasin is known for its swamps and wildlife, while Ogan Ilir has some beautiful beaches.
“The river is alive,” an old woman warned me as I was taking photos of the Musi. “Respect it, or it will take you.”
getting around is…an adventure. the traffic is insane. i tried to hail a taxi, but ended up on the back of a motorbike. not my usual mode of transportation, but hey, when in palembang. check out TripAdvisor for some reliable taxi services, though. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g297718-Activities-Palembang_South_Sumatra_Sumatra.html
and the food! oh, the food. i had pempek, of course. it’s the local specialty - fish cakes served with a sweet and sour sauce. delicious. i also tried laksan, a spicy noodle dish. and tekwan*, a soup with fish dumplings. my stomach is still thanking me. check out this local food guide for more ideas: https://www.yumpu.com/en/document/palembang-culinary-tourism-guide/1
overall? palembang is…an experience. it’s not polished or perfect. it’s hot, humid, and chaotic. but it’s also vibrant, fascinating, and full of history. if you’re looking for an off-the-beaten-path adventure, palembang might just be your thing. just…watch out for the ghosts. and the durian. and maybe bring a fan. https://southsumatratourism.com/