Port Elizabeth: Drumming the Wild Coast in South Africa

you know those days when the rhythm just hits you right in the chest? that's how i felt stepping off the plane in port elizabeth. the vibe here-it's like a laid-back jam session where everyone knows the beat but no one's trying too hard to impress. i just checked and it's 22.6°c there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. perfect for wandering the beachfront with your sticks in hand, feeling the breeze off the indian ocean. i swear, the humidity's so thick you could almost drum on it.

anyway, i'm here on tour with this indie band, and we've got a gig at the boardwalk convention centre tomorrow night. the locals i met at a tiny pub in summerstrand told me the crowd here loves a good groove-apparently, they'll dance barefoot on the sand if the beat's right. someone told me that the best coffee in town is at urban espresso cafe, and honestly, after three hours of soundcheck, i needed that caffeine jolt more than my next breath. the barista even gave me a free shot when i told him i was a drummer-said it'd keep my hands steady.

if you get bored, east london and jeffreys bay are just a short drive away. east london's got that old-school charm, and jeffreys bay? man, the surf scene there is unreal. i heard from a drunk surfer at a beach bonfire that the waves at supertubes are "like drumming on liquid thunder." not sure what that means, but i'm intrigued.

*the food here is another story*. i tried this place called the kitchen, and the bobotie was so good i almost dropped my sticks. a local warned me that the line gets crazy long by noon, so get there early or risk missing out. and don't even get me started on the craft beer scene-there's this brewery, emerald vale, that's got a stout so dark it feels like night in a glass. perfect for those late-night jam sessions when the muse hits.

i've been staying in a little guesthouse in central, and the neighbors are... interesting. one night, i heard what sounded like a djembe circle in the courtyard, and i swear, i almost grabbed my kit and joined in. the owner said it's a weekly thing-locals just showing up to play. if that's not the spirit of port elizabeth, i don't know what is.

"the best gigs aren't in the big cities," a street musician told me. "they're in the places where the crowd feels like family."

i'm starting to believe him. there's something about this place-it's raw, it's real, and it's got a rhythm all its own. if you're ever here, check out the donkin reserve for a sunrise drum circle-it's like the whole city wakes up with you. and if you're into history, the south end museum is a must. someone said it's haunted, but i didn't feel a thing-just the weight of stories in the air.

anyway, i've got to pack up my kit and head to soundcheck. but before i go, here's a little map to help you find your way around this wild coast gem:

and because no travel post is complete without pics, here's a taste of what you'll find here:

if you're into the scene here, check out visitpe.co.za for more on what's happening, or hit up tripadvisor for the latest on where to eat and play. and if you're a drummer like me, keep an ear out for the beat-it's everywhere here.