port harcourt: oil, rain, and a whole lotta chaos
okay, so i’m back. like, actually back. and honestly, i’m still trying to process everything. port harcourt… it’s… a lot. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the humidity is clinging to me like a second skin, and the rain is threatening to start again any minute. it’s a proper delta kind of place, you know?
seriously, look at that map. it’s basically a giant, muddy blob. and that’s kind of the point, i guess. it’s a sprawling city, built on low-lying land, and they’re really worried about the sea levels rising. someone told me that the government’s talking about massive flood defenses, but who knows if it’ll actually happen. it’s always a gamble in places like this, isn’t it?
they call it the ‘garden city,’ which is… ironic. like, seriously ironic. it’s surrounded by rivers and has these green spaces, which is nice, but it’s also a huge industrial zone. refineries everywhere, pumping out smoke. it smells… intense. a mix of oil and something vaguely floral, i think. it’s a strange combination.
historically, it started as a coal port - can you even imagine? - back in 1913. then oil happened, obviously. it exploded in the 50s and just kept growing. it’s gone from a tiny little port to this massive metropolis. it’s insane to think about how much it’s changed in a hundred years. they even had a civil war there, which is… well, it’s a civil war. i don’t really want to dwell on that part.
and the people! they speak pidgin - this crazy mix of English and Nigerian languages. it’s like a whole other language. i tried to order something and completely butchered it. it was… awkward. they’re super friendly, though. really, really friendly. and they’re incredibly busy. it’s a commercial hub, a social hub, everything all rolled into one chaotic mess.
if you get bored, obio akpor, okrika, eleme, ogu bolo, ikwerre, and etche are just a short drive away. they’re all part of the greater port harcourt area. and nnewi, over in Anambra State, is a bit further, but you could probably find a driver.
there aren’t a ton of ‘landmarks’ in the traditional sense. it’s more about the atmosphere. the ports are bustling, the rivers are full of boats, and there are these green spaces dotted around. the university of port harcourt teaching hospital is there, which is good to know if you need medical attention. and the refineries… well, they’re a thing.
someone told me that the food isn’t amazing, honestly. i didn’t really try much. i mostly stuck to bottled water and snacks. but i did see a lot of people eating jollof rice - which, let’s be honest, is pretty much a national dish in Nigeria.
seriously, just be aware of the sea levels. and the rain. and the general chaos. it’s a fascinating place, though. a really, really fascinating place. it’s not for everyone, but if you’re looking for something… different… you might just like it. i’m still not entirely sure i did, but it’s definitely stuck with me.
and the population? 3.48 million as of 2023. that’s a lot of people, crammed into a relatively small area. it’s a huge social-economic hub, and it’s growing fast. it’s a wild ride, that’s for sure.
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