Port Sudan: Dust, Dates, and a Seriously Weird Vibe

okay, so port sudan. it wasn't on the itinerary, honestly. a last-minute ferry change, a missed connection, and suddenly i'm here. it feels…stuck. not in a bad way, exactly, just…suspended. like a forgotten scene in a movie.

my persona for this trip? i’m a *vintage clothes picker, which means i spend my life hunting for forgotten treasures. and port sudan…it’s a treasure trove of forgotten. the markets are insane. piles of fabric, chipped teacups, and clothes that look like they’ve lived several lifetimes. i found a silk scarf for next to nothing that smells faintly of cloves and something i can’t quite place. probably adventure.

i just checked and it’s…a dry heat, clinging to everything, right now. the air tastes like sand and salt. it’s 36.7 degrees, but feels like 34.86, which is a weirdly specific number, isn’t it? the pressure is 1006, humidity is a pathetic 19%, and the sea level is also 1006. honestly, i don’t know why i’m even telling you this. it just feels…important to document the details. like i’m building a case for why this place exists.

someone told me the best place to get coffee is actually a tiny stall near the fish market. apparently, the guy makes it with cardamom and something called ‘hilba,’ which is some kind of fenugreek. sounds terrifying, but i’m willing to try anything once.

spent yesterday wandering around the coral reef area. it’s…bleached. a lot of it. heartbreaking, really. but even in its faded glory, it’s beautiful. the water is so clear you can see everything. i saw a couple of guys fishing with nets, and a bunch of kids playing football on the beach. it’s a real mix of things here.

my accommodation is…basic. let’s just say i’ve seen cleaner bus stations. but the owner, a guy named Omar, is a legend. he keeps offering me dates and telling me stories about his grandfather, who was apparently a pearl diver. he also warned me about the mosquitos. “they are small, but they are fierce,” he said, with a very serious expression.

if you get bored, Eritrea is just across the water, but i’ve heard getting a visa is a nightmare. i’ve been reading up on the history of the area - it’s been a trading post for centuries, a crossroads of cultures. you can really feel that here. it’s a bit rough around the edges, but that’s part of its charm. check out this TripAdvisor page for some basic info.

i overheard a couple of expats complaining about the lack of ‘proper’ restaurants. honestly, i think they’re missing the point. the best food here is the street food. the falafel, the shawarma, the grilled fish…it’s all incredible.

apparently, there’s a really good dive shop here, but i haven’t had a chance to check it out yet. i’m also trying to find a good place to buy some spices. i want to bring something back that really captures the flavor of this place. someone told me to avoid the tourist traps and go to the local souk. Yelp doesn’t seem to have much on Port Sudan, which is…fitting.

there’s this constant hum of activity here. cars* honking, people shouting, music playing. it’s chaotic, but it’s also…alive. i think i’m starting to understand why Omar loves this place so much. it’s not about luxury or convenience. it’s about the grit, the history, the people. it’s about the feeling that you’re somewhere real.

I heard that the local buses are an experience, but you need to be prepared to share your seat with a goat or two. Seriously.

check out this local forum for more info. and if you’re planning a trip, maybe pack some mosquito repellent. and a sense of adventure. you’ll need it. Lonely Planet has some basic info too, but honestly, the best way to experience this place is to just get lost.