Porto Alegre: Where the Humidity Hugs You and the Churrasco Smells Like Home

okay, so porto alegre. where do i even begin? i just got back, and honestly, my hair is still doing that weird frizz thing. i’m a touring session drummer, you know? gotta keep it somewhat presentable. but porto alegre… it’s a vibe. a serious vibe.

I landed, and the air just grabbed me. i just checked and it’s… a damp blanket right now, hope you like that kind of thing. ninety-eight percent humidity? seriously? my drumsticks felt like they were gonna sprout moss. but hey, it’s part of the charm, right?

I was there for a gig - a corporate thing, ugh - but i managed to sneak out and explore. and let me tell you, this city is layered. Like, history, architecture, the smell of grilling meat… it’s a sensory overload in the best way.

I spent a lot of time wandering around the *Mercado Público. Seriously, go. It’s chaotic, it’s loud, it’s full of people yelling about fish and spices. I got completely lost, but in a good way. I ended up buying some weird dried fruit that tasted vaguely of cinnamon and regret. You can check out some reviews on TripAdvisor https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g342233-d164788-Reviews-Mercado_Publico_Central_Market-Porto_Alegre_Rio_Grande_do_Sul.html.

Someone told me that the best churrascaria (barbecue restaurant) is Galeteria Panorama. Apparently, you can eat until you literally can’t move. I didn’t make it, but I heard the lines are insane. I did find a smaller place, though, near the Parque Farroupilha (Bairro Bom Fim). It was amazing. The meat was cooked perfectly, and the chimarrão (mate tea) they served was… intense.

I stumbled upon a really cool street art scene in Cidade Baixa. It’s a bit rough around the edges, but the murals are incredible. I spent a good hour just wandering around, taking photos (as a drummer, I appreciate the visual rhythm, you know?). You can find some local art collectives on Instagram - search for #portoalegrearte.

“A drunk guy at a bar told me to watch out for the pigeons in the city center. Apparently, they’re ruthless.”

I also checked out the Theatro São Pedro. Beautiful building, stunning architecture. I didn’t see a show, but I wandered around and soaked in the atmosphere. It’s worth a visit, even if you’re not into opera. You can find their schedule here: https://www.teatrosao pedro.com.br/.

If you get bored, Caxias do Sul and Gramado are just a short drive away. Gramado is super touristy, but Caxias do Sul has some interesting wineries.

I overheard some gossip at a cafe - apparently, there’s a hidden speakeasy somewhere in Moinhos de Vento*. No one could tell me exactly where it is, but they said to look for a unmarked door with a brass knocker. Good luck with that. Yelp https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=speakeasy&find_loc=Porto%20Alegre%2C%20Rio%20Grande%20do%20Sul%2C%20Brazil might have some leads, but don’t quote me on that.

Honestly, porto alegre surprised me. It’s not flashy, it’s not perfect, but it’s real. And the people are incredibly friendly. Just… bring a dehumidifier.