Porto, Honestly? It's a Bit of a Mood

okay, so porto. i didn't plan on porto, it just…happened. i was supposed to be in lisbon, but my train got delayed, then cancelled, then i ended up chatting with this guy, miguel, who was heading north and convinced me it was way better. miguel smelled faintly of *coffee and regret, which, honestly, felt relatable.

and he wasn’t wrong, exactly. it’s…different. lisbon feels like it’s trying to impress you, all polished tiles and fado. porto just is. it’s a little rough around the edges, a little bit damp, and smells perpetually of the Douro River and something vaguely floral. i just checked and it's…a grey sort of drizzle happening right now, hope you're into that.

my airbnb was in the Vila Nova de Gaia area, which is basically where all the port wine cellars are. it was up a ridiculously steep hill, and my calves are still screaming. the woman who ran it, dona isabel, didn’t speak a word of english, but she kept trying to feed me tiny, incredibly strong espressos and biscuits. i think it was her way of saying “you look exhausted.” she was right.

so, things i did. wandered around the Ribeira district, which is super touristy but still pretty. took a port wine tour (obviously). ate a lot of francesinha, which is basically a heart attack on a plate, but a delicious heart attack. someone told me that the francesinha at Café Santiago is the best, but honestly, they all tasted pretty similar to me - gloriously messy and covered in cheese. you can find more reviews on Yelp.

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i overheard two guys arguing about which azulejo tile shop had the most authentic designs. it got surprisingly heated. apparently, it’s a whole thing.


i spent an afternoon getting lost in the Livraria Lello, which is supposed to be the inspiration for the harry potter books. it’s beautiful, but also incredibly crowded. like, shoulder-to-shoulder, selfie-stick-wielding crowded. i’d recommend going first thing in the morning if you want to actually see anything. you can book tickets in advance on TripAdvisor.

the weather was…well, it was consistently around eleven degrees, felt like ten, pressure was high, humidity was a bit much. not ideal for sketching, which is what i usually do. i’m an illustrator, so i need decent light. i ended up mostly drawing inside cafes, fueled by aforementioned espresso.

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a local warned me about pickpockets around the São Bento train station. apparently, it’s a hotspot. keep your stuff close!


if you get bored, Braga and Guimarães* are just a short train ride away. i didn’t have time to go, but miguel said they’re worth a visit. he also said the people in braga are “a bit intense,” which, coming from him, felt like a glowing recommendation.

honestly, porto isn’t a city that screams “instagrammable.” it’s more…a city that whispers “come sit down, have a drink, and contemplate the meaning of life.” it’s a bit melancholic, a bit chaotic, and completely captivating. i’m already thinking about going back. you can find more info on the Visit Porto website. and if you're looking for alternative tours, check out GetYourGuide.

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i heard someone complaining that the street performers are all playing the same fado song. apparently, it’s a serious issue.