Porto: Rain, Rum, and Seriously Weird Vibes

okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on caffeine and regret. 3433975 and 1032337881 - don’t ask. it’s a thing. the humidity is clinging to me like a damp towel, and it’s…there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 29.87 feels like 29.89, temp min 27.83, max 30.01, pressure 1013, humidity 43, sea level 1013, ground level 1010. basically, it’s perpetually drizzly and you’ll need a good raincoat. seriously.

I landed in Porto yesterday and honestly? it’s…a lot. like, a beautiful, crumbling, slightly unsettling lot. it’s not the postcard-perfect Portugal you see on Instagram. it’s gritty. it’s real. and it smells faintly of salted cod and something vaguely industrial. i’m not gonna lie, i almost booked a flight back. almost.

I checked out the Ribeira district first - the riverfront. it’s packed with tourists, which is fine, but the restaurants are aggressively trying to sell you everything. i ended up grabbing a bifana (pork sandwich) from a tiny place down a side street. it was…okay. someone told me that the best bifanas are found in the back alleys, but i didn’t have the guts to venture too far. i heard that from a guy nursing a glass of vinho verde, looking like he’d seen things.

Spent the afternoon wandering around Vila Nova de Gaia, across the Douro River. that’s where all the port wine cellars are. you have to do this. i went to Sandeman - it was a bit touristy, but the tour was actually pretty good. they let you sample a bunch of different ports. i’m pretty sure i drank about half a bottle by the end. i’m not judging.

*Gear List (because i’m a mess):
Raincoat (obviously)
Comfortable walking shoes (you’ll be doing a lot of walking)
Portable charger (my phone battery died twice)
Phrasebook (portuguese is…challenging)
A healthy dose of skepticism
* A willingness to get lost

I stumbled across this tiny bar called ‘O Falcão’ - it’s tucked away on a side street and the owner, a guy named Manuel, just pours you a drink and tells you stories. he’s a bit of a character. he said something about a secret tunnel under the city, but i didn’t really believe him. maybe he was just drunk.

Speaking of getting lost, I ended up completely turned around near the Livraria Lello. it’s supposed to be one of the most beautiful bookstores in the world. it’s gorgeous, no doubt, but the line to get in was insane. i just snapped a few pictures from the outside and moved on. i heard that if you buy a Harry Potter book there, you’re blessed with good luck. i didn’t buy a book, so…who knows.

I’m staying in a little Airbnb in the Bonfim neighborhood. it’s a bit rough around the edges, but it’s cheap and it’s close to everything. if you get bored, Vila Nova de Gaia are just a short drive away. the neighbors are mostly older Portuguese guys who just stare at you when you walk by. it’s…interesting.

Overall, Porto is a weird, wonderful, slightly depressing place. it’s not for everyone, but if you’re looking for something a little different, you might just find yourself falling in love with it. i’m definitely feeling a pull to explore more of the Douro Valley. maybe i’ll check out TripAdvisor for some recommendations. TripAdvisor Porto and Yelp Porto are good starting points. Also, check out this local board for events: Porto Events.

Seriously, go. Just…go. And bring a raincoat.