Porto’s Sticky Secrets & a Whole Lotta Rain

okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee. 3460949 and 1076003792… honestly, those numbers just keep swirling around in my head like a bad dream. the temp was 25.58, feels like 25.76, pressure 1013, humidity 60, sea level 1013, ground level 999. yeah, that’s… atmospheric. like a damp sponge. i landed in porto yesterday and it’s already a sensory overload. not in a good way, like, ‘oh my god, look at the beautiful architecture’ good. more like ‘my brain is actively trying to escape.’

first off, the rain. it’s not a polite drizzle. it’s a full-on, biblical downpour. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. i swear, i saw a guy trying to build a tiny umbrella out of a newspaper. admirable, but probably not effective. i’m pretty sure i’ve absorbed at least three liters of rainwater already.

i’m staying in this tiny place near Ribeira - it’s basically a squeeze, but the location is killer. i found it through Airbnb, and honestly, the pictures were way generous. it’s got this incredible view of the Douro river, which is nice, but also constantly threatened by the deluge. i’m sharing the space with a ceramicist named Elias. he’s… intense. he spends all day covered in clay and muttering about glaze percentages. he keeps offering me tiny, perfectly formed bowls. i politely declined. i need caffeine, not miniature pottery.

someone told me that the best pastel de nata in the city are at Manteigaria - seriously, go there. don’t even think about it, just go. i also heard that the Livraria Lello, the bookstore that Harry Potter supposedly inspired, is ridiculously crowded, so go early. like, before the sun rises early. it’s a tourist trap, sure, but it’s a beautiful one. check out TripAdvisor for more info: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g190968-d227833-Reviews-Livraria_Lello-Porto_Portugal.html.

and speaking of crowds, i stumbled upon this little bar called Bar Time Out. it’s tucked away on a side street and the bartender, a grizzled old guy named Manuel, was dispensing some seriously potent vinho verde. he kept saying, “Don’t trust the tourists, meu amigo.” i think he was warning me about something. maybe the rain. maybe the ceramicist. i’m not entirely sure.

Someone overheard me complaining about the weather and said, “Porto’s rain is a blessing. It washes away the pretension.” I’m not sure I buy that, but it’s a nice thought.

i spent the afternoon wandering around Vila Nova de Gaia, across the river. it’s got this really cool vibe, lots of port wine cellars. i popped into Cálem - they let you do a free tasting, which is always a win. i’m pretty sure i’m going to need a port-induced coma soon. i checked Yelp for some good eats: https://www.yelp.com/b/porto-portugal.

if you get bored, Vila Real de Santo António are just a short drive away. i’m thinking of heading there tomorrow, if i can find a dry pair of shoes. i’m also considering investing in a raincoat. a really good one.

“Don’t go near the Ribeira at night,” a local warned me. “It’s full of pickpockets and guys selling questionable souvenirs.” I’m taking that to heart. And maybe investing in a lock for my backpack.

seriously, the rain is relentless. it’s like the city is actively trying to drown me. but you know what? it’s kind of… charming. in a soggy, slightly depressing way. i’m going to go find another coffee and contemplate the existential dread of being perpetually damp. and maybe order another pastel de nata. don’t judge.

check out this local forum for more tips: https://www.visitporto.com/en/