Pros and Cons of Living in Dakar: An Unbiased Guide (From a Very Tired Botanist)

okay, so. Dakar. People ask me about it constantly now. Mostly because I’ve been posting a lot of pictures of weird, wonderful plants I’m finding. Which, fair. It is a botanical goldmine. But living here? It’s… a lot. Like, a lot a lot. I’m Elara, by the way. Botanist. Currently fueled by instant coffee and the sheer stubbornness to document every single Euphorbia species within a 50km radius.

Right now, the weather’s doing that thing where it’s humid enough to feel like you’re breathing soup, but the sun is still trying to burn a hole through your skull. It’s… invigorating? I guess? Anyway, I’m based in Ngor, which is pretty chill. A short flight (or a long taxi ride) gets you to Bamako, Mali, if you need a change of scenery. Or, you know, air conditioning.

I’m going with Option C for this one - deep dive with subheadings. Because I’m feeling analytical, and also because I need to organize my thoughts before I collapse.

*The Teranga**

Let’s start with the good stuff, because there is good stuff. The people. Seriously. Teranga - the Senegalese concept of hospitality - is real. It’s not just a marketing slogan. People are genuinely welcoming, curious, and willing to help. I’ve lost count of the number of times someone has gone out of their way to point me in the right direction, offer me a cup of bissap, or just strike up a conversation. It’s… nice. It’s a balm for a soul that’s been battered by academic conferences and grant applications.

But. And there’s always a but, isn’t there? - it can also be overwhelming. Constant offers of help, constant invitations. You need to learn to politely decline, which is a skill I’m still mastering. I overheard a local woman telling her friend, “Attention, elle est toujours occupée!” (She’s always busy!). It stung a little, but she was probably right.

The Marché Hustle

Okay, so the markets. Oh, the markets. They’re… an experience. Sandaga Market is legendary. A sprawling labyrinth of everything you could possibly need (and a lot of things you definitely don’t). The energy is insane. The smells are… potent. The bartering is essential. I spent a solid hour trying to negotiate the price of some seeds the other day. Ended up paying way too much, I’m pretty sure, but hey, at least I got the seeds.

Here’s the thing: you will be hustled. It’s just a fact. People will try to sell you things you don’t need, overcharge you, or just generally take advantage of your naivete. You need to be firm, confident, and willing to walk away. My pro-tip? Learn a few basic Wolof phrases. It goes a long way.

Data point: Rent for a decent one-bedroom apartment in a relatively safe area like Ngor or Yoff can range from $400-$700 a month. Utilities are… unpredictable. Sometimes they work, sometimes they don’t. Factor in about $50-$100 for internet, which is also… unpredictable. You can find some apartments listed on Jumia Houses.

The Infrastructure (or Lack Thereof)

This is where things get tricky. Dakar is a city of contrasts. You’ll see gleaming modern buildings next to crumbling colonial-era structures. You’ll see fancy SUVs driving past donkey carts. And you’ll see a lot of potholes. A lot of potholes. Seriously, invest in good suspension for your vehicle. Or just embrace the chaos and take a taxi.

Public transportation is… an adventure. Bush taxis are cheap and plentiful, but they’re also overcrowded and often driven by people who seem to think traffic laws are merely suggestions. I’ve taken a few. Once.

And the electricity? Don’t even get me started. Power outages are a regular occurrence. Invest in a generator, a power bank, and a good book. I read a lot of books these days.

I asked a local artist, Omar, about it the other day. He just shrugged and said, “C’est Dakar, ma chérie. On s’adapte.” (It’s Dakar, my dear. We adapt.) He’s got a point.

A statue of a man with a gun in front of a building

Safety & Security

Okay, let’s address the elephant in the room. Safety. Dakar is generally considered safe, especially in tourist areas. But petty crime is a problem. Pickpocketing, bag snatching - it happens. Be aware of your surroundings, don’t flash expensive jewelry or electronics, and avoid walking alone at night in poorly lit areas.

There’s been some increased concern about petty theft in certain neighborhoods recently. Check the Dakar Subreddit for recent updates and local advice.

I’ve heard rumors - probably just rumors - about scams targeting expats. Something about fake police officers demanding bribes. Take everything with a grain of salt, but be cautious.

According to Numbeo, Dakar's crime index is around 55.7, which is higher than the global average. But honestly, I feel safer here than I do in some cities back home. Just be smart.

white concrete building near body of water during daytime

Honestly? It’s complicated. Dakar isn’t for everyone. It’s chaotic, frustrating, and often exhausting. But it’s also vibrant, fascinating, and full of life. If you’re looking for a sanitized, predictable experience, this isn’t it. But if you’re looking for an adventure, a challenge, and a chance to immerse yourself in a truly unique culture, then Dakar might just be the place for you. Check out TripAdvisor for more touristy perspectives, but take them with a pinch of salt. And maybe pack some mosquito repellent. Seriously.

Oh, and one last thing. A local warned me - over a plate of thieboudienne, no less - to never trust anyone who offers you “free” anything. Apparently, it’s always a scam. Wise words, I think.

I'm off to chase a rare Euphorbia* now. Wish me luck (and send coffee).

Yelp Dakar might have some restaurant recommendations, if you're into that sort of thing.

Pros and Cons of Living in Dakar: An Unbiased Guide (From a Very Tired Botanist)

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About the author: Grace Miller

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