Puerto Varas and the Perpetual Damp: A Photographer's Lament

okay, so puerto varas. it’s…a mood. i’m currently huddled in a cafe that smells overwhelmingly of cinnamon and regret, trying to dry out my camera bag. i swear, this place is permanently shrouded in a mist that clings to everything. i just checked and it’s…actively weeping right now, which is fantastic for the moss, i guess, but less so for my lenses.

i came here chasing the light, you know? as a *freelance photographer, i’m always on the hunt for that perfect shot. the lakes, the volcanoes… the brochures promised a photographer’s paradise. what they didn’t mention was the relentless humidity. my gear feels like it’s growing its own ecosystem.

i’ve been wandering around, mostly getting lost in the backstreets. the architecture is…interesting. a lot of german influence, apparently. someone told me the original settlers thought they were building a little piece of bavaria in chile. it’s a bit of a stretch, honestly, but it gives the town a quirky vibe. i found this amazing little antique shop crammed with old cameras and lenses - seriously, a photographer’s dream (or nightmare, depending on your budget).

i overheard two older guys arguing over the best place to get empanadas. one swore by a place near the plaza, the other insisted on a tiny hole-in-the-wall down by the lake. it got surprisingly heated.

the people here are…reserved. not unfriendly, just…chill. like, really chill. i tried to strike up a conversation with a local about the best vantage point for photographing volcan osorno, and he just shrugged and said “it depends on the clouds.” helpful. i’ve found the best way to get information is to just wander and eavesdrop.

i’ve been relying heavily on TripAdvisor (https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g670053-Puerto_Varas_Los_Lagos_Region-Vacations.html) and Yelp (https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Restaurants&find_loc=Puerto%20Varas%2C%20Chile) for restaurant recommendations. i had a truly bizarre experience at a place that claimed to serve “fusion cuisine.” it involved a lot of mayonnaise and something that tasted vaguely like cinnamon. i’m sticking to the empanada hunt from now on.

the weather, according to my little weather app, is 14.62°C, feels like 13.78°C, with a pressure of 1012 and humidity at 63%. basically, it’s damp. very damp. i heard from a fellow traveler that the best time to visit is during the austral summer (december to february), but even then, you’re not guaranteed sunshine.

if you get bored, frutillar is just a short drive away, apparently. i haven’t made it there yet, but i’ve seen pictures of its charming german architecture. i’m also thinking of taking a day trip to vicuña*, but i need to find a reliable tour operator. i saw a post on a local forum (https://www.lonelyplanet.com/chile/los-lagos-region/puerto-varas) warning about some of the smaller companies cutting corners on safety.

a barista, while making my (mediocre) latte, casually mentioned that the town is haunted. apparently, there’s a ghost who wanders the streets looking for his lost camera. ironic, right?

i’m starting to think i packed too much gear. lugging around all this equipment in the rain is a nightmare. i should have just brought my phone and embraced the lo-fi aesthetic. oh well. live and learn. or, in my case, get everything slightly mildewed.

i’m going to go find that empanada place now. wish me luck. and maybe send a dehumidifier.