Puri, India: Coastal Chaos, Temple Tales, and That One Weird Beach Vendor

the moment i stepped off the train in puri, i knew this place was going to be a mess-in the best way possible. the air smelled like fried fish, incense, and something vaguely sweet i couldn't place. the weather? i just checked and it's 23.5°c and kinda humid right now, hope you like that kind of thing. the kind of heat that makes you sweat even when you're standing still, but also the kind that feels alive, you know?

first stop: jagannath temple. someone told me that the prasadam there is life-changing, but also that you shouldn't trust anyone offering to "guide" you inside-apparently they'll charge you triple for nothing. i skipped the temple tour and just wandered the outer streets instead, where the chaos is free and the chai is cheap. if you get bored, bhubaneswar and konark are just a short drive away, and honestly, the road trip itself is half the fun.

now, about that beach. puri beach is... something else. the sand is golden, the waves are loud, and the vendors are relentless. i met this one guy selling shell necklaces who claimed he'd been there since the 90s. "same spot, same price," he said, laughing. i bought one just for the story. the water's warm, the sunsets are unreal, and the stray dogs are oddly friendly. i heard that the best time to visit is early morning when the fishermen bring in their catch-apparently it's a whole scene.

food-wise, puri doesn't disappoint. i ate at this tiny place called *nalapaka (not sponsored, just obsessed) where the prawn curry made me question every other prawn curry i've ever had. someone also mentioned wildgrass restaurant for a more upscale vibe, but i was too busy stuffing my face with street food to check it out. pro tip: try the chenna poda* if you see it-it's like cheesecake's weird, delicious cousin.

and then there's the people. puri's locals are a mix of devout pilgrims, laid-back fishermen, and hustlers who could sell sand to a desert dweller. i met a guy who swore he'd seen a sea turtle laying eggs on the beach at midnight. "come back in 60 days," he said, "and you'll see babies." i didn't, but i liked the idea of it.

one weird thing: the weather data says the humidity is 67%, but it felt more like 87% to me. maybe it's just the coastal air playing tricks. either way, pack light, bring sunscreen, and don't forget a reusable water bottle-this place will dehydrate you faster than you can say "puri bhaji."