Relocating to As Sulaymānīyah: A Step-by-Step Expat Checklist (From Someone Who Barely Has Their Life Together)

okay, so you're thinking about moving to as sulaymānīyah? good for you. seriously. it's…different. i'm a freelance photographer, mostly shooting abandoned buildings and trying to convince myself it's 'art' and not just a crippling fear of commitment. i landed here six months ago chasing a rumor about a forgotten textile factory, and honestly, i haven't quite figured out how to leave.

let's be real, this isn't dubai. it's not even erbil. it's…as sulaymānīyah. the air right now feels like someone's gently simmering cardamom and dust. it's warm, bordering on sticky, and there's a haze that makes everything look like a faded photograph. you're a short flight from istanbul, which is a lifesaver if you need a proper dose of chaos and decent coffee.

so, checklist time. because apparently, adults make those. i'm mostly winging it, but here's what i've learned, mostly through making spectacularly bad decisions.

*visa stuff: this is the big one. don't even think about trying to work on a tourist visa. it'll end badly. you'll need a sponsor, usually an employer, or you're looking at a student visa if you're somehow still in school. i've heard whispers about 'creative' solutions, but i'm not touching that with a ten-foot pole. Check the Iraqi Ministry of Foreign Affairs website for the latest, but honestly, expect bureaucracy. lots of it.

accommodation: rent is…surprisingly reasonable. i'm paying around $300 a month for a decent apartment, but it's a bit outside the city center. closer in, you're looking at $400-$600, depending on how fancy you want to get. don't expect western standards. think 'character' instead of 'modern amenities.' i've seen some places that look like they haven't been updated since the 70s, and honestly, i kind of love them. This TripAdvisor forum has some threads about finding apartments.

money: the currency is the iraqi dinar (iqd). exchange rates fluctuate, so keep an eye on that. credit cards aren't widely accepted, so bring cash. lots of cash. there are ATMs, but they're not always reliable. i've learned to always have a backup stash of usd.

safety: okay, let's address the elephant in the room. it's iraq. it's not exactly known for its peaceful vibes. as sulaymānīyah is generally considered safer than other parts of the country, but you still need to be aware of your surroundings. avoid political demonstrations, don't wander around alone at night, and trust your gut. i've never felt actively threatened, but i'm also not exactly a beacon of confidence. This Reddit thread has some recent discussions about safety.

language: kurdish is the main language here, but arabic and english are also spoken, especially in business. learning a few basic kurdish phrases will go a long way. 'supas' (thank you) is a good place to start. people are generally very friendly and appreciate the effort.

getting around: taxis are cheap and plentiful. download a ride-hailing app if you can find one that works reliably. public transportation exists, but it's…an experience. i once ended up on a bus full of chickens. it was memorable.

the 'vibe': as sulaymānīyah is a city of bazars and chai houses. it's slow-paced, a little rough around the edges, and full of hidden gems. people are incredibly hospitable, but also very curious. be prepared to answer a lot of questions about your life. and your marital status. and your plans for the future.

overheard gossip #1: "that new cafe on sarai rash? the coffee is terrible, but the owner is apparently dating a famous singer."

overheard gossip #2: "don't buy fruit from the guy near the park. he waters it with tap water."

overheard gossip #3: "the hamam on gulan street is the best in the city, but you have to go early to avoid the crowds."

a totally unscientific cost of living breakdown:

look, moving anywhere is a pain. moving to as sulaymānīyah is a different* kind of pain. but it's also rewarding. it's a place that will challenge you, frustrate you, and occasionally, completely charm you. just pack your patience, your sense of humor, and a good pair of walking shoes. and maybe a phrasebook. Yelp reviews are…sparse, to say the least.

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