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Relocating to Kumila: A Step-by-Step Expat Checklist

@Eva Soler2/8/2026blog
Relocating to Kumila: A Step-by-Step Expat Checklist

so you're thinking about moving to kumila. good choice, maybe. i've been here for three months and my brain still feels like it's adjusting to the altitude. kumila sits at about 2,200 meters, which means your lungs will throw a tantrum for the first week. pack altitude sickness pills unless you want to feel like you ran a marathon just walking to the corner store.

i'm writing this as a freelance photographer, so my priorities are different from someone who just wants a 9-to-5. i need good light, interesting backdrops, and a place where i won't get mugged for my camera gear. kumila surprisingly checks all those boxes, but let me break it down like a drunk friend at 2am.

before you even book the flight



- *visa stuff: kumila's visa process is a bureaucratic nightmare. expect to provide bank statements, a letter of intent, and probably a lock of your hair. no, seriously, they once asked my friend for a handwriting sample.
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altitude prep: stock up on electrolytes. coconut water is your best friend.
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cash is king: many local shops don't take cards. i learned this the hard way when i tried to buy a sim card with a credit card and got a blank stare.

cost of living (real numbers, not tourist lies)



data from numbeo (as of 2024):
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rent for a 1-bedroom in city center: $250/month
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meal at an inexpensive restaurant: $3.50
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monthly internet: $20
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groceries (monthly for one): $100

it's cheap, but don't let that fool you. imported goods will cost you an arm and a leg. my favorite peanut butter is $12 a jar. i've considered switching to the local version, but it tastes like sadness.

finding a place to live



i stayed in a hostel for the first two weeks while i apartment-hunted. kumila's rental market moves fast. if you see a place you like, jump on it. here's what i learned:

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neighborhoods: the city center is loud but convenient. san isabel (east side) is quieter and has better light for photography. el mirador is trendy but overpriced.
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landlords: most don't speak english. learn basic spanish phrases or bring a translator app. i once accidentally agreed to pay six months' rent upfront because i misunderstood "deposito."

daily life hacks



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transportation: buses are 50 cents, but they're packed like sardines. i bought a used bicycle for $40. it's the best decision i've made.
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grocery stores: the central market is chaotic but cheap. avoid going on weekends unless you enjoy being elbowed by grandmothers.
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internet: fiber is available in most areas, but speeds vary. i pay $20 for 30mbps, which is fine for uploading photos but terrible for streaming.

weather and neighbors



right now, it's rainy season. every afternoon, the sky opens up like someone pulled a plug. it's moody and dramatic, perfect for photos but terrible for plans. if you want sun, head to san pedro, which is just a 2-hour drive away and feels like a different planet.

overheard gossip and drunk advice



"don't drink the tap water unless you want to spend a week in the bathroom." - a local barista

"the best tacos are at a cart on calle 5. the guy doesn't have a name for his stand, but he's there every night." - a fellow expat

"if a landlord asks for 'una mordida,' they're not offering you a snack. it's a bribe. walk away." - my spanish teacher

final thoughts



kumila isn't perfect. the altitude will kick your ass, the bureaucracy will test your patience, and the rain will ruin your shoes. but if you're looking for a place that's cheap, beautiful, and full of character, it's worth a shot. just bring peanut butter.

Kumila street scene

Kumila market


resources i used:*
- Numbeo Kumila
- Lonely Planet Kumila Forum
- Expat Kumila Subreddit
- Yelp Kumila Restaurants


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About the author: Eva Soler

Lover of good books, bad puns, and deep conversations.

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