Rio de Janeiro: Sticky Humidity and Samba Dreams (Don't Forget Your Deodorant)

okay, so. rio. wow. just…wow. i’m still peeling, honestly. i’m a botanist, right? I’m supposed to be all about appreciating ecosystems and the delicate balance of nature. and rio? it’s a lot. a beautiful, chaotic, sweaty lot.

I landed, and the air just hit me. i just checked and it's a thick, damp blanket clinging to everything. twenty-seven degrees, feels like thirty. the humidity is insane - eighty-three percent. my hair is a frizzball, my camera lens is permanently steamed up, and i’m pretty sure my phone is developing its own ecosystem.

I’m here ostensibly to study the native flora of the Tijuca National Park - which is incredible, by the way, a proper jungle smack-bang in the middle of a massive city. but mostly, i’m wandering around, getting lost, and eating way too many pastel de nata. seriously, i need to stop. my jeans are protesting.

I stayed in Santa Teresa, which was a good call. It’s got this amazing, slightly crumbling, bohemian vibe. Cobblestone streets, artists’ studios spilling out onto the sidewalks, and the best views of the city. if you get bored, Niterói and Petrópolis are just a short bus ride away. I spent a morning just wandering, sketching the bougainvillea climbing over the old colonial houses. It’s a photographer’s dream, honestly, if you can handle the light.

Speaking of which, overheard this from a guy nursing a caipirinha at a bar last night: “Cuidado com os batedores de carteira.” Apparently, pickpockets are a real thing, especially around the tourist hotspots. Drunk advice, maybe, but i’m keeping my valuables close. I’m also carrying a ridiculous amount of insect repellent. The mosquitos here are aggressive.

I did a walking tour of the city center - it was…intense. So much history, so much poverty, so much life crammed into every square inch. The architecture is stunning, though. The Teatro Municipal is breathtaking. And the Christ the Redeemer statue? Yeah, it’s as iconic as everyone says. I’d recommend booking tickets in advance, though. The queues are brutal. Check out TripAdvisor for some tips: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g301903-Activities-Rio_de_Janeiro_Rio_de_Janeiro_State.html

Someone told me that the best place to get feijoada (the black bean stew) is at a little place called Bar do Mineiro in Santa Teresa. Apparently, it’s a local institution. I haven’t tried it yet, but it’s definitely on the list. Yelp seems to agree: https://www.yelp.com/biz/bar-do-mineiro-rio-de-janeiro.

I’ve been trying to learn some Portuguese, but it’s proving…challenging. I mostly just end up pointing and smiling a lot. I found a really helpful language exchange forum though: https://www.meetup.com/topics/learn-portuguese/br/rio-de-janeiro/.

Oh! And a warning from a local woman selling flowers near Copacabana beach: “Não confie em ninguém que te ofereça drogas na praia.” Don’t trust anyone who offers you drugs on the beach. Noted.

Honestly, rio is exhausting. But in the best possible way. It’s a sensory overload, a constant assault on your senses. It’s sticky, it’s loud, it’s chaotic, and it’s utterly captivating. Just…bring deodorant. Seriously. And maybe a hazmat suit. Just kidding. (Mostly.)

I’m off to explore the Botanical Garden tomorrow. Hopefully, I can find some air conditioning and a decent cup of coffee. I’ve heard that Confeitaria Colombo is a must-visit for coffee lovers: https://confeitaria-colombo.com/en/.