Long Read

Rio de Janeiro: Sweat, Samba, and Seriously Questionable Street Food

@Emma Hayes2/14/2026blog
Rio de Janeiro: Sweat, Samba, and Seriously Questionable Street Food

okay, so. rio. where do i even begin? i’m a botanist, right? i’m supposed to be waxing poetic about the flora, the biodiversity, the sheer life bursting from every crack in the pavement. and there is that, don’t get me wrong. but honestly? i spent most of my time dodging scooters and trying to figure out if that fruit stand was actually selling mangoes or some kind of elaborate, brightly colored trick.

man in red and white floral kimono


I just checked and it’s…a humid hug right now. Like, the kind where you’re pretty sure your hair is permanently frizzing. twenty-five point oh five degrees, feels like twenty-five point four one. not complaining, exactly. it’s rio. But pack light, breathable fabrics. seriously.

I was here for, like, a week. mostly wandering. trying to find the perfect spot to sketch some orchids. (spoiler alert: they’re everywhere, but finding a quiet corner to actually sketch them? that’s the challenge.) I ended up mostly sketching people. the sheer energy of this place is…intense.

three kites are flying in the sky together


I stayed in Santa Teresa, which was…charming. In a slightly crumbling, “this place has stories to tell” kind of way. The hills are steep, though. My legs are still recovering. Someone told me that the buses are a nightmare, so i mostly relied on Ubers. Which, by the way, are surprisingly affordable.

“Don’t eat anything from a street vendor after midnight. Seriously. Just…don’t.”


That was drunk advice from a guy at a bar. I ignored him. I regret nothing. (Okay, maybe a little. My stomach did a lot of protesting.) But the pastel de nata? Worth it. Every single time. Check out some reviews on TripAdvisor https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g301903-Rio_de_Janeiro_RJ_Brazil-Restaurants.html. You’ll need them.

I spent a good chunk of time at the Jardim Botânico. Obviously. It’s a botanical garden. What else would i do? It’s stunning. Seriously, go. Just…watch out for the monkeys. They’re cheeky little thieves. I heard that they’ll snatch your sunglasses right off your face.

a group of people in clothing


*Copacabana beach is…a lot. Like, a lot of people. But the vibe is infectious. I spent an afternoon just people-watching. It’s a masterclass in human behavior. And the caipirinhas? Don’t even get me started.

If you get bored,
Niterói is just a short drive away. Apparently, it has some amazing art museums. I didn’t make it, but i’ve added it to the list for next time. I also saw a listing on Yelp https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=museums&find_loc=Rio+de+Janeiro%2C+RJ%2C+Brazil that looked promising.

Pro-Tips (because apparently i’m a pro now):

Learn a few basic Portuguese phrases. It goes a long way.
Bargain at the markets. It’s expected.
Be aware of your surroundings. Pickpocketing is a thing.
Embrace the chaos. Seriously. Just go with it.
Don’t be afraid to try the street food. (But maybe skip it after midnight.)
Check out this local forum for more insider tips: https://www.riodejaneiro.com/

Honestly? I’m already planning my return trip. I need to find those orchids. And maybe try a different street food vendor. Maybe.

Oh, and something a local warned me about: “The pigeons in
Largo do Machado are aggressive. Like, really* aggressive. Don’t make eye contact.” I didn’t listen. I regret nothing. (Okay, maybe a little.)


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About the author: Emma Hayes

Exploring the intersection of technology and humanity.

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