Riyadh, Honestly? It's...A Lot.

okay, so riyadh. i didn't choose riyadh, exactly. it was a routing thing, a layover that stretched into "why not?" fueled by questionable airport coffee and a desperate need for a visa that wasn't going to require selling a kidney. i'm a freelance photographer, mostly shooting music festivals, and sometimes you end up where you least expect.

first impressions? *heat. like, a solid, clinging heat. i just checked and it's…a warm hug from a furnace right now, hope you're into that. the data said 8.55 celsius, felt like 8.55, min 8.55, max 8.77, pressure 1015, humidity 81%, sea level 1015, ground level 998. honestly, numbers don't even begin to cover it. it's the kind of heat that makes your camera lens sweat.

and the city itself…it’s sprawling. like, aggressively sprawling. everything is new, or looks new, which is a weird feeling. a lot of glass and concrete. i spent a good chunk of my first day just trying to figure out the roundabouts. seriously, they're an art form here. i think i almost caused three minor traffic incidents.

people are…reserved, at first. but once you get past the initial politeness, they're incredibly generous. i was trying to find a decent coffee shop (a serious mission, let me tell you) and this guy, Mohammed, walked me like fifteen minutes out of his way to show me a hidden gem. it wasn't fancy, just strong, bitter, and exactly what i needed. you can find some reviews on Yelp.

someone told me that the best shawarma in the city is from a place that doesn't even have a sign. you just have to ask around. i haven't found it yet, but i'm determined.

my accommodation is…interesting. it’s a modern apartment in the Al Olaya district. pretty central, which is good. the neighbors seem to mostly keep to themselves. if you get bored, Dammam and Jeddah are just a short flight away. i overheard someone complaining about the traffic on the way to King Abdullah Financial District, apparently it's a nightmare during rush hour.

food-wise, it's a revelation. i've been living on dates, hummus, and everything grilled. i tried Kabsa, which is like the national dish, and it was…a lot of rice. i also stumbled upon a little bakery selling these amazing date-filled pastries. seriously, i think i ate six. i've been trying to document everything on my Instagram.

i heard that the historical Diriyah district is worth a visit, but it's a bit outside the city. someone else warned me about the dress code - be respectful, cover up, especially if you're a woman. it's just common sense, really. you can find more info on TripAdvisor.

honestly, riyadh is challenging. it's not a city that immediately reveals its charms. it's a city you have to work at, to peel back the layers. but there's something…compelling about it. a sense of energy, of change. and the tea is phenomenal. i'm still trying to figure out the best way to navigate the souks* without getting completely lost. i've also been looking at local photography groups on Reddit to see if i can connect with other photographers.

it's definitely not a place i would have picked for a vacation, but i'm glad i ended up here. it's a reminder that sometimes the best adventures are the ones you don't plan.