roaming through the forgotten alleys of aurangabad
the air smelled like wet stone and incense when i first stepped off the bus. aurangabad. never planned to come here, but that's how travel works sometimes-you just follow the smell of chai and hope for the best. i just checked and it's 15.9°c there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. perfect wandering weather, honestly. not too hot, not too cold, just enough to make you want to keep moving without sweating through your shirt.
i heard someone in the hostel say the ajanta caves were "overrated unless you're into rocks." bold claim. but then again, aurangabad's got a way of making you question everything you thought you knew about tourist spots. the real magic? it's in the backstreets. the kind of place where a stray dog will follow you for three blocks just to see where you're going. loyal little shadow.
"don't eat the pani puri from that guy near the bus stand," a local whispered to me at a tea stall. "he uses tap water." good advice, even if i ignored it and lived to tell the tale.
if you get bored, *hyderabad and nashik are just a short drive away. but honestly? aurangabad doesn't need saving. it's got its own rhythm. the kind of rhythm that makes you forget what day it is.
the food scene (or lack thereof)
look, i'm not gonna lie-the food here isn't going to blow your mind unless you're into spicy, oily, and served with a side of chaos. but that's the charm. i stumbled into a tiny place called Baba Ka Dhaba (not the viral one, sadly) and had the best dal fry of my life. smoky, rich, and served with a side of judgment from the owner who didn't understand why i was taking photos of my plate.
if you're into street food, TripAdvisor says the Chaat Gali is the place to be. i didn't go-i was too busy following the smell of frying samosas from a cart that didn't have a name. sometimes the best meals are the ones you can't google.
the people (and the rumors)
aurangabad's got this weird mix of old-world charm and new-world hustle. i met a guy who claimed his grandfather built the Bibi Ka Maqbara. "it's true," he said, eyes wide. "ask anyone." i didn't. but i believed him. why not?
i also heard that the Ellora Caves are haunted. "not by ghosts," a drunk guy at a bar told me. "by the spirits of the craftsmen who never got paid." dramatic, but i'll take it.
"the best time to visit is during theaurangabad festival," a woman at the market told me. "but don't tell anyone. it's our little secret."
the vibe (and why you should care)
aurangabad isn't trying to be anything it's not. it's not goa, it's not jaipur, it's not even trying to be on your bucket list. and that's why it's perfect. it's the kind of place where you can wander for hours and not see another tourist. where the locals will invite you for chai just because you looked lost. where the chaos feels like home.
practical tips (if you're into that)
- stay: Zostel Aurangabad is decent if you're on a budget. clean, cheap, and full of people who also got lost on the way to somewhere else.
- eat: Baba Ka Dhaba for dal fry, Chaat Gali for street food, and Hotel Panchvati for a fancy-ish thali.
- do: ajanta caves, ellora caves, and the bibi ka maqbara*. but also just wander. that's the real gem.
final thoughts
aurangabad is the kind of place that sneaks up on you. one minute you're rolling your eyes at another "historical site," the next you're sitting in a chai stall at 2am, listening to a guy tell you about his grandfather's ghost. it's messy, it's chaotic, and it's perfect. go. get lost. and don't forget to try the samosas.