Rustling Leaves and Damp Socks: A Whirlwind in 89570

okay, so. i’m still shivering. seriously. i just checked and it’s drizzling a persistent, grey sort of rain - the kind that soaks you to the bone without you even realizing it’s happening. hope you like that kind of thing. i’m talking about *Bourg-en-Bresse, by the way. 89570. yeah, that’s the postcode. It’s… something.

I’m a botanist, you see. Not the glamorous, Indiana Jones-ing-through-the-Amazon kind. More the ‘staring at moss for hours’ kind. I was tracking a particularly elusive species of lichen - Usnea subfloridana, if you’re curious - and my research led me here. Honestly, I wasn’t expecting… this.

It’s quiet. Unnervingly so. Like the whole place is holding its breath. The architecture is… solid. Grey stone buildings, all very symmetrical and imposing. Not exactly screaming ‘welcome, weary traveler!’ I did find a charming little café, though. “Le Petit Coin” - apparently, the coffee is decent. I’ll add it to TripAdvisor later. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurant_Review-g1064273-d12345678-Reviews-Le_Petit_Coin-Bourg_en_Bresse_Ain_Rhone_Alpes.html

I overheard some locals chatting outside the boulangerie. Apparently, the annual Fête des Bresse is coming up. They were arguing about whether the prize-winning rooster would be bigger than last year. Seriously. Roosters. Apparently, it’s a big deal. I’m not sure I’m ready for that level of poultry enthusiasm.

“Don’t go near the old mill after dark,” a woman with a very serious face told me, clutching a baguette. “They say it’s haunted by the miller’s wife. She lost her wedding ring in the river, you see. Still looking for it, they say.”

Right. Haunted mill. Of course. Because why wouldn’t there be one? I’m starting to think this lichen hunt was a terrible idea.

I’ve been trying to find some decent hiking trails. The landscape is… flat. Very flat. It’s all fields and farmland. Pretty, in a muted, pastoral sort of way, but not exactly inspiring for a botanist who’s used to dramatic mountain scenery. I did stumble across a lovely little patch of wildflowers, though. Managed to get some decent photos.

Someone told me that the local market is amazing on Saturdays. Apparently, you can get the freshest cheese and charcuterie this side of Lyon. I’ll check it out tomorrow. Yelp says it’s worth a visit. https://www.yelp.com/biz/bourg-en-bresse-market-bourg-en-bresse

My accommodation is… rustic. Let’s just say it’s seen better days. The heating is questionable, and the wallpaper is peeling. But it’s cheap. And I’m here to study lichen, not win a design award. I found a local forum where people discuss the area. https://www.bourg-en-bresse.fr/forum It’s mostly about local politics and complaining about the weather, but it’s a good way to get a feel for the place.

If you get bored, Genève and Lyon* are just a short drive away. I might pop over to Lyon for a decent meal. I’m craving something other than cheese and bread. Seriously, I’m starting to dream in cheese.

I’m also getting the distinct impression that the locals think I’m a bit… odd. I’m probably not helping myself by wandering around with a magnifying glass and muttering about fungal spores. Oh well. At least I’m finding some interesting lichen. And the rain… well, the rain is certainly memorable. I’m going to check out the local history museum tomorrow. Maybe I’ll learn something about the miller’s wife.

“The pigeons here are fearless,” a man with a handlebar mustache warned me, shaking his head. “They’ll steal your lunch right out of your hand. Don’t make eye contact.”

Right. Fearless pigeons. Just what I needed to know. I’m starting to feel like I’m in a quirky French film. I need a strong coffee. And maybe a raincoat that actually works. I'm also thinking of checking out some local events on the city's official website. https://www.bourg-en-bresse.fr/