Long Read

Safi, Morocco: A Street Artist's Sun‑Blistered Sketchbook

@Freya Holm2/10/2026blog

just landed in safi, morocco after a bumpy flight that felt like a low‑budget indie movie stunt. the airport's signage looks like a thrift‑store mural, and the customs agent who stamped my passport smiled at the fact that i'm carrying more paint tubes than souvenir magnets. i was dreaming of cracking open a fresh canvas under the sun when a guy at the bus terminal whispered, "the heat is the perfect canvass for neon drip."

i just checked the forecast on my phone and it's sitting at 27.68°C (feels like 29.94°C) right now - the kind of relentless sun that makes your skin feel like cheap poster ready for ink.

the humidity is at 69% and the ground‑level pressure is 995 hPa, while the sea‑level pressure reads 1014 hPa, so you feel the weight of the sky pressing down on you like a drum pad.

if you get bored, the coastal towns of essaouira and agadir are just a short drive away, each offering fresh waves and old markets.

someone told me that the rooftop bar on rue des souks has a secret speakeasy hidden behind a laundry mat, and i heard that the best shawarma is served at a tiny shop tucked under a clock tower.

style="color:#a00;">i heard a rumor that the hidden coffee roastery in the old medina serves a cold brew so strong it practically paints your tongue. local graffiti legend said the alley behind the spice market is the safest spot to try a fresh stencil after sunset.

style="color:#00a;">the bus driver who took me to the outskirts muttered, "don't trust the food stall near the train station after dark - they're using expired spices and the heat makes it look like a fresh batch." i laughed, but i kept my own ramen pack just in case.


when i first walked into the souk of silver and spices, the narrow alleys felt like a never‑ending spray‑can maze. you can barter in shouts louder than a drum solo, and the vendors have that effortless swagger that makes you want to pick up a brush and join in.

the old fishing harbour is a living choreography piece - nets are tossed like ribbons, the fishermen’s shouts beat like a syncopated rhythm, and you can almost hear the echo of a bassline in every splash.

the coastal dunes look like giant rollers you'd find in a skate park; the sand is fine enough to dust off a canvas after a night session.

i booked a hostel on booking.com that's half a block from the main drag - rooms smell of incense and cheap shampoo, which is fine if you're used to sleeping in a drum‑studio after a jam.

someone told me that the coffee roastery on rue du marché serves espresso so bitter it wakes you up like a sudden rain storm. i tried it and now i have a permanent buzz that makes my eyes feel like spray cans on a hot day.

the bar near the port pumps out cheap synth beats that locals love dancing to, and the smell of sea salt mixes with burnt spice. i dropped my paintbrush there once and the bartender just laughed, saying "it’s a free ride, the walls are already covered".

i heard a rumored warning about stray dogs that guard the early morning market; i've never seen them, but i keep a pepper spray just in case.

bring a lightweight hat, a portable battery pack for your phone camera, and a small bottle of water - you’ll thank yourself after a 10‑minute walk in the 48°C shade.

Safi medina
Safi coastline
Safi market


check out the TripAdvisor review of Hotel El Minzah, the Yelp listing for Cafe Marrakech, or the local board for upcoming street‑art festivals.


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About the author: Freya Holm

Loves data, hates clutter.

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