Salvador, Bahia: Lost in the Samba & Humidity
okay, so salvador… where do i even begin? i'm pretty sure the coordinates 3471766 and 1076251019 are some kind of secret code for finding the real bahia, you know? not the postcard version. it’s a swirling mix of colors, smells, and sounds that kinda assaults your senses in the best way possible.
the weather here is something. temp 21.6, feels like 21.9… humidity at 80%? seriously considering investing in a personal dehumidifier. i just checked and it's… thick. like a warm, wet blanket. hope you like that kind of thing.
i'm a digital nomad (trying to be, anyway. wifi can be spotty), and i came here searching for… i don’t even know anymore. it’s less about a destination and more about getting utterly lost. and i have. repeatedly. i spent yesterday wandering through the Pelourinho, the historic center, which is basically a kaleidoscope of pastel-colored colonial buildings. it’s intensely photogenic, obviously.
the locals are… intense. they’re warm, welcoming, always ready with a smile and a samba rhythm. but also, they have opinions. and they aren’t afraid to share them. i heard that the best acai bowl in town is down a tiny alleyway, but someone else told me that place is a tourist trap. go figure.
the energy here is palpable. it’s like the city is constantly vibrating. especially at night. the music spills out of every doorway - samba, axé, a little bit of everything. it's impossible not to move. i spent an evening at a little bar in the Largo do Pelourinho, just listening and watching. bliss.
*Pro-tip: learn a few basic Portuguese phrases. it goes a long way. like, really a long way. and be prepared to haggle. it's part of the culture. i’m perpetually broke, so it's a good skill to have.
i was talking to this old woman at a market - she was selling these incredible mangoes. she said something in Portuguese that i didn’t understand, but someone translated for me. she said, “a vida é uma festa” which roughly translates to “life is a party.” and honestly? i think she nailed it.
Neighbors are just a short bus ride away, with beaches and more historical towns to explore if you need a break from the city’s hustle. If you get bored, Rio de Janeiro is just a short drive away.
someone told me that the street food around the Mercado Modelo is amazing, but be careful what you eat. I heard that some vendors aren’t as… sanitary as others. Drunk advice, i know, but a local warned me about it.
i'm exploring beyond the tourist hotspots now, venturing into some of the less-traveled neighborhoods. i'm hoping to find some hidden gems, some authentic experiences. i'm planning a cooking class - i want to learn how to make moqueca, a traditional seafood stew. i saw a place on Yelp that looks promising. Escola de Cozinha Tradicional Salvador.
i’ve been trying to document everything through photography. it’s a challenge - the light is so intense, the colors are so saturated. it feels like you need to capture the feeling* of the place, not just the image. TripAdvisor has some good ideas for things to do, but don’t just follow the guidebook. get lost. talk to people. taste everything.
now, if you’ll excuse me, i’m off to find some more acai. this city is definitely getting under my skin in the best way possible. i'm going to check out some local tour operators for a walking tour. Viator has some options.