Long Read

Samarinda's Green Side: Messy Truths from a City on the Mahakam

@Marcus Thorne2/8/2026blog
Samarinda's Green Side: Messy Truths from a City on the Mahakam

so here's the thing about sustainability in Samarinda-it's not what you'd expect from a city that's basically built on coal. i mean, the place is literally surrounded by mines, but somehow there's this weird little pocket of green trying to survive. like finding a cactus in a coal mine, you know?

first off, the weather here is no joke. it's hot, humid, and feels like you're walking through soup half the time. but that's also why trees matter so much here-without them, you'd literally melt into the pavement. the city's trying though. they've got this Mahakam River waterfront that's actually pretty nice if you ignore the occasional floating trash. locals say it's "getting better," but i've seen cleaner rivers in my grandma's bathtub.

now, let's talk numbers because someone's gotta. rent in Samarinda is surprisingly affordable-we're talking about $150-250 for a decent place, which is wild compared to jakarta. but here's the kicker: the city's green space per capita is like 0.5 square meters. that's less than a yoga mat per person. so yeah, affordable living, but you're basically paying to live in a concrete jungle with a few sad trees sprinkled around.

i asked a local coffee snob (because every city has one) what they thought about the sustainability scene. they said, "it's like watching a toddler try to plant a tree-cute, but you're not sure it'll survive." harsh, but fair. there are some community gardens popping up, and the city's pushing for more bike lanes, but let's be real-most people here still drive because the public transport is basically a game of chance.

if you're into numbers, here's a quick table of what it costs to live here versus other indonesian cities:

ExpenseSamarindaJakartaSurabaya
Monthly Rent$150-250$300-500$200-350
Utilities$30-50$50-80$40-60
Public Transport$10-20$30-50$20-30


and before you ask, yes, there are places nearby worth checking out. balikpapan is just a few hours away and has way more green initiatives going on. it's like the older, cooler sibling Samarinda is trying to impress.

but here's the thing-Samarinda's got potential. it's not all doom and gloom. there's this one park, Taman Almulk, that's actually pretty chill if you go early in the morning. locals swear by it, and i've seen more joggers there than i expected. it's like the city's little secret garden, hidden in plain sight.

so, is Samarinda sustainable? not really. but is it trying? yeah, in its own messy, imperfect way. and honestly, that's kind of endearing. it's like rooting for the underdog in a race where everyone else has better shoes.

a bridge over a body of water with a city in the background

A group of people standing next to each other


if you're planning to visit, here's some drunk advice from a local i met at a warung: "bring a hat, drink lots of water, and don't expect the river to be crystal clear. but hey, the people are nice, and the food is cheap. what more do you need?"

for more info, check out TripAdvisor's Samarinda guide or the local subreddit where people actually talk about this stuff.


You might also be interested in:

About the author: Marcus Thorne

Sharing knowledge so you don't have to learn the hard way.

Loading discussion...