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samsun: a city that’s not quite what i expected

@Vera Zinn2/6/2026blog
samsun: a city that’s not quite what i expected

well here i am in samsun, and honestly? it’s been a journey. this city stretches along the black sea coast between two big rivers - the kızılırmak and the yeşilırmak. it’s basically a long strip of buildings with water on one side and plains on the other. the elevation is super low, like 4 meters above sea level, which makes it feel kinda precarious. but hey, it’s got character. i just checked and it’s 14.95 degrees out there right now, feels like 13.44 though. hope you like that kind of thing.


the population’s huge - over a million in the metro area. it’s the biggest city in the black sea region, which is saying something. but honestly? it doesn’t feel overwhelming. it just feels… spread out. like it’s been stretched between those two river deltas. if you get bored, sinop, çorum, amasya, and tokat are just a short drive away. though i haven’t driven anywhere yet. the traffic’s a bit much for me.

brown rock formation on body of water during daytime


someone told me that amisos hill is the spot for panoramic views, but i haven’t made it up there yet. mostly i’ve been wandering near the coast. there’s this old colony site from the 6th century bc, but it’s not super obvious. you have to look for it. the opera house is nice though. i did find a café with a view. that was pleasant. i’m tired.

white daisy in bloom during daytime


waterfalls? they exist. kabaceviz is 45 km out in çarşamba. 60 meters tall. sounds impressive, but honestly? i’m not trekking that far today. the akalan ones are even farther. i did see atakum beach though. it’s a beach. sand, water, sun. standard stuff. the 19 mayıs university pond is supposed to be peaceful for camping, but i’m not camping. i’m not that adventurous. someone told me the local pita is good though. i ate some. it was bread. fine.

ocean waves crashing on rocky shore during daytime


the city’s growing fast. they’re reclaiming land from the sea and building apartments everywhere. industrial stuff is moving east toward the airport. smart? maybe. but it feels chaotic. like they’re just throwing things at the wall. there are three big shopping malls now. i went to one. it had stores. the black sea port is huge. important. whatever. i’m more interested in the fact that atatürk started the whole independence thing here in 1919. that’s wild. they commemorate it every year. big deal here.

anyway. that’s samsun for you. ancient stuff mixed with new stuff. big city energy but relaxed vibe. i’m gonna nap. the weather’s holding steady at 14.95 degrees. feels like 13.44. hope you brought a jacket.


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About the author: Vera Zinn

Trying to make sense of the world, one article at a time.

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