San Juan, Puerto Rico: Humidity, Rum, and Questionable Street Art (My Brain's a Little Fried)
okay, so. san juan. wow. i’m still peeling sunscreen off my elbows and trying to remember what dry air feels like. i just checked and it's…a thick, clinging blanket of moisture right now, hope you like that kind of thing. seriously, my hair hasn’t known what to do with itself since i landed. i’m a touring session drummer, you know? I need to look vaguely presentable, even when I’m hauling a snare drum through cobblestone streets.
I was here for a gig - a corporate thing, ugh - playing background music for some conference about…something. honestly, i zoned out after the second powerpoint slide. the band was decent, though. we crammed into this tiny hotel room near *Old San Juan, which smelled faintly of mildew and regret.
I spent most of my downtime wandering. Old San Juan is…a lot. Beautiful, definitely. All those colorful buildings, the castillo looming over everything…but also packed. Like, shoulder-to-shoulder tourists everywhere. I tried to find some quiet corners, some places where I could just…breathe. I ended up in a little courtyard, listening to a guy practicing the cuatro. That was nice.
Someone told me that the best mofongo is at Deaverdura - apparently, it’s a local secret. I haven’t made it there yet, but I’m determined. I did stumble upon this amazing little rum distillery, though. Casa Bacardí is a must. The tour was surprisingly interesting, and the samples…well, let’s just say I was feeling pretty good afterwards. I even bought a bottle of their Añejo Cuatro Soles. Don’t judge.
I’m trying to be all responsible and give you some actual travel tips, but my brain is still a little fried from the humidity and the rum. So, here’s a list, because apparently that’s what people want:
*Bug spray. Seriously. Like, industrial-strength stuff. The mosquitos are relentless.
*Comfortable shoes. You’ll be doing a lot of walking on cobblestones. Your feet will thank you.
*A hat. For sun protection, obviously. And to hide your crazy drummer hair.
*Patience. Things move at a different pace here. Embrace it.
*Cash. Some smaller places don’t take cards.
I overheard some drunk guy at a bar saying that Condado is where all the fancy hotels are, but it’s also overpriced and full of…well, fancy people. I prefer the slightly grittier vibe of Old San Juan. Plus, the street art is way more interesting. Some of it is genuinely good, some of it is…questionable. But it’s all part of the experience, right?
I also heard that if you want to avoid the crowds, go early in the morning. Like, really early. Before the tour buses arrive. I tried it one day and it was actually kind of magical. The streets were quiet, the light was beautiful, and I felt like I had the whole city to myself.
If you get bored, Mayagüez and Ponce* are just a short drive away. I didn’t make it to either of those, but I’ve heard good things. Check out TripAdvisor for some ideas: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g60664-San_Juan_Puerto_Rico-Vacations.html. Yelp has some decent restaurant reviews too: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=restaurants&find_loc=San+Juan,+PR. And for a more local perspective, check out some of the community boards: https://www.puertorico-guide.com/.
Honestly, san juan is…an experience. It’s chaotic, it’s humid, it’s loud, it’s beautiful. It’s not for everyone. But if you’re looking for something a little different, a little off the beaten path, it might just be what you need. Just…bring bug spray.
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