Santiago, Chile: My Brain Feels Like a Pisco Sour
okay, so. chile. santiago. where do i even begin? i’m your friendly neighborhood touring session drummer, and usually, i’m all about precision, timing, the perfect snare crack. this trip? this trip was… not that. it was a beautiful, chaotic mess.
I landed, bleary-eyed, and immediately felt the air. it’s got this… dusty sweetness to it, like someone’s been baking empanadas for centuries. i just checked and it's hovering around twenty degrees celsius, with a humidity that’s just enough to make your hair do weird things. hope you like that kind of thing.
My first mission? coffee. obviously. i stumbled into this tiny place in *Lastarria, smelled like roasted beans and old books. the barista, a woman with a serious eyebrow game, just nodded when i mumbled something about needing caffeine intravenously. she wasn’t wrong. i found a few good spots, but honestly, the best coffee was from a little cart near the Plaza de Armas. don’t let the appearance fool you.
Speaking of the Plaza, it’s… intense. pigeons, street performers, vendors hawking everything from alpaca sweaters to questionable souvenirs. i overheard a couple arguing about whether the statue of Pedro de Valdivia looked more like a disappointed accountant or a particularly grumpy conquistador. it was peak santiago.
I spent a lot of time wandering around Bellavista, which is basically a hipster’s dream. Murals everywhere, quirky shops, and restaurants that serve pisco sours in every conceivable variation. someone told me that La Chascona, Pablo Neruda’s house, is a must-see. apparently, it’s a total rabbit warren of secret passages and weird sculptures. i didn’t make it, but it’s on the list for next time.
I also took a day trip to Valparaíso. seriously, do that. it’s like a technicolor dreamscape clinging to a hillside. the funiculars are terrifying but worth it for the views. check out some reviews on TripAdvisor before you go - https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g297479-Activities-Valparaiso_Valparaiso_Region.html.
Neighborhood Watch: if you get bored, Viña del Mar and Valparaíso are just a short drive away. I heard that the seafood in Viña del Mar is insane, but you gotta go early to avoid the crowds.
Pro-Tips (because apparently I’m a pro now):
Learn a few basic Spanish phrases. seriously. it goes a long way.
Be aware of your surroundings. petty theft is a thing.
Embrace the chaos. santiago isn’t about ticking off boxes on a list. it’s about getting lost and finding something unexpected.
Try the completo. it’s a Chilean hot dog, and it’s a religious experience. Yelp has some good recommendations: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=completo&find_loc=Santiago,+Region+Metropolitana,+Chile
Don't be afraid to haggle at the markets. it's expected.
I also spent some time checking out the street art scene. there’s a ton of it, especially in Bellavista and Cerro Alegre. it’s constantly evolving, so you never know what you’re going to find. I even found a local board with some tips on where to find the best murals: https://www.reddit.com/r/Santiago/
Honestly, santiago is a sensory overload in the best possible way. it’s loud, it’s vibrant, it’s a little bit overwhelming, and i wouldn’t trade it for anything. just… maybe pack some earplugs. and a strong cup of coffee. and a willingness to go with the flow.
Oh, and one more thing. someone, while clearly a little tipsy, advised me to avoid the area around the Universidad de Chile after dark. just a heads-up.
I'm already planning my return. maybe i'll even learn to make a decent pisco sour.