Sao Paulo's Sticky Secrets: A Beat-Up Diary
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee. the humidity here is… intense. i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. it’s clinging to everything, like a really persistent admirer. the air pressure is sitting at 1014, which feels about right for a city that never sleeps, or maybe just doesn’t want to be bothered. it’s 22.05, feels like 22.37, temp min 22.05, temp max 22.05. seriously, my brain feels like a damp sponge.
Sao Paulo. it’s… a lot. like, a really a lot. i landed yesterday and immediately felt like i’d stumbled into a hyper-saturated film. the colors are just… aggressive. and the noise. oh god, the noise. it’s a constant, low-level thrum of buses, scooters, and people shouting. i’m trying to capture it all, you know? trying to translate the feeling into something tangible.
I’m staying in Vila Madalena, which is basically a giant, chaotic art district. it’s a maze of narrow streets, covered in murals and street art. it’s beautiful, but also slightly terrifying. i almost got run over by a delivery guy on a motorbike this morning. almost.
I spent the afternoon wandering around the Mercado Municipal, which is a total sensory overload. mountains of fruit, spices, cheeses… it smells incredible. someone told me that the pastel de bacalhau is a must-try, but i’m still on the fence. i heard that it’s either divine or aggressively salty. i’ll report back. I checked out Yelp for some recommendations and found a few places that look promising: https://www.yelp.com/search?keyword=mercado%20municipal%20sao%20paulo.
My neighbors are… interesting. there’s this family who plays samba music at 6 am every morning, and this guy who collects bottle caps. it’s a whole thing. if you get bored, Curitiba are just a short drive away. I also saw a guy dressed as a giant banana yesterday. a giant banana.
I’m trying to document everything, of course. i’ve got my camera, my notebook, and a rapidly dwindling supply of ibuprofen. here’s the gear list, because apparently, that’s what people want:
Camera (obviously) - a battered Canon AE-1, because why not?
Notebook - filled with illegible scribbles and half-formed ideas
Waterproof bag - essential for surviving the humidity
Portable charger - because my phone dies faster than a houseplant in direct sunlight
Earplugs - seriously, invest in some good earplugs
Brazilian Portuguese phrasebook - my attempts at speaking Portuguese are… questionable
* A healthy dose of cynicism
I stumbled across this incredible street art scene near Consolação Avenue. it’s like a living, breathing gallery.
I spent a few hours just wandering around, soaking it all in. I overheard gossip at a bar about a new exhibition opening at the Museu de Arte de São Paulo Assis Chateaubriand (MASP). someone said it’s a mind-blowing collection of modern art, but also that it’s incredibly crowded.
“Honestly, it’s a madhouse. Go early, or be prepared to elbow your way through a sea of tourists.”
I’m trying to find some authentic experiences, you know? not just the tourist traps. i’m hoping to catch a live samba performance, maybe learn a few Portuguese phrases, and definitely eat a lot of pastel de bacalhau. I found a local board with some events happening: https://www.eventbrite.com/d/brazil--sao-paulo/samba/.
I’m also trying to avoid getting ripped off. a local warned me about inflated prices at some of the tourist shops.
“Don’t believe everything you see. Bargain hard, or walk away.”
I’m heading to Ibirapuera Park tomorrow - apparently, it’s a huge green space in the middle of the city.
I’m hoping to find a quiet spot to recharge and maybe sketch something.
Seriously, the humidity is a beast. I’m considering investing in a dehumidifier, but then again, that would probably ruin the whole vibe. Maybe I’ll just embrace the dampness. It’s kind of… atmospheric.
Check out TripAdvisor for some hotel recommendations: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Hotels-g312687-Sao_Paulo.html
Okay, I’m going to go refill my coffee. Need. More. Caffeine.