Shimane Prefecture: The Unexpected Stop That Changed My Trip
i didn't plan to stay in shimane. honestly, i barely knew it existed before my train rolled into matsue station. but sometimes the best trips are the ones that sneak up on you, right?
*the weather was...interesting. i just checked and it's 10.94°c there right now, feels like 9.81°c with 66% humidity. not exactly tropical, but perfect for wandering around without sweating through your shirt.
i heard from a drunk salaryman at a izakaya that the local matsue castle is one of only twelve original castles left in japan. not a reconstruction. the real deal from 1611. someone else told me the samurai district nearby is where they filmed that historical drama everyone's watching. could be bullshit, could be true - either way, worth checking out.
food tip: the wagashi (traditional sweets) here are supposed to be legendary. i tried the matcha warabi mochi at this tiny shop near the castle and nearly cried. no joke. the lady who made them had been doing it for 47 years. that's commitment.
if you get bored, hiroshima and okayama are just a short train ride away. but honestly? i was perfectly content getting lost in shimane's backstreets, finding random shrines, and drinking vending machine coffee while watching old men play shogi in the park.
pro-tip: download the japan travel app before you come. cell service can be spotty in the smaller towns, and google maps sometimes gets confused by the narrow streets.
i met this photographer who said the sunset from miho shrine pier is the most underrated view in the entire country. he showed me his photos and i believed him. the colors looked like someone painted them with a fever dream.
random overheard gossip: apparently there's a secret onsen (hot spring) in the mountains that only locals know about. the kind with no signs, just a wooden door in the forest. if you find it, don't tell anyone I told you.
my hostel was this converted samurai house with paper walls and futons that felt like sleeping on clouds. cost me about $25 a night. can't beat that with a stick.
budget warning: convenience store food here is both a blessing and a curse. the onigiri are amazing, but i gained 3 pounds in a week. worth it.
i almost skipped shimane entirely. my original plan was to rush through to kyoto. but that would've been a massive mistake. sometimes the places you know nothing about end up being the ones that stick with you longest.
final thought:* bring layers. the temperature swings are real, and that humidity will mess with your hair game.
more info:
- Matsue Castle Official Site
- Shimane Tourism Board
- Local Food Guide