Back to Feed
Long Read

shopping in samsun: from markets where spice trade invaders would scoff to malls that make you question your life choices

@Lucas Grant2/8/2026blog

i woke up this morning to the sound of a delivery van backfiring outside my apartment, which is like a hostel here because my roommate hides actual scented candles under the tongue of a vending machine. samsun’s shopping scene is a weird split between two extremes. on one side, you’ve got the central market where vendors sell dried mulberries like they’re ancient treasure. on the other, there’s the samsum mall which is basically a cathedral of brand logos. it’s chaotic. like your brain after three nights without sleep but somehow better.

let’s talk about the markets first. i’m not saying this to flex but i once bought a kilo of local honey for 20 liras. 20. and it came in a bag that smelled like someone had used it to store their ex’s perfume. that’s the charm. it’s not about fancy packaging. it’s about the fact that some guy named mehmet is selling what might be the world’s most suspiciously orange dried apricots. i asked him why they’re so red. he said, in broken english and with a shrug, "they’re angry about the weather." it’s probably true. the weather here is this unbearable mix of 35-degree heat and a humidity that clings to your skin like a bad life decision. you start shopping, you’re buying onions, and suddenly you’re sweating like you ran a marathon. which you didn’t. because samsun’s sidewalks are these poorly maintained concrete jungles. you’re not running. you’re just existing.

*safety in samsun is a thing, but it’s not boring. the crime rate is low, like under 5% for petty stuff. but here’s the catch: people here are relentless about defending their honor. if you accidentally bump into someone while shopping, you might get a lecture about"don’t jostle my grandma’s headscarf" or whatever. it’s extreme politeness mixed with passive-aggressive energy. and speaking of grandmas, the neighborhood markets are packed with elderly shoppers who will point and tell you exactly what you’re doing wrong. i tried to haggle for that orange apricot bag, and a woman in her 70s just stared at me like i’d insulted her maiden name. it worked. if you can survive that, you’re good.

now let’s pivot to the luxury side. samsum mall is this gleaming beast with escalators that take you to a food court where you can eat $15 kofte for lunch. serendipity! a friend of mine, alex, swears that the best thing there is a knockoff designer scarf that costs more than your weekly groceries. i’m not saying it’s not good-it might be-i’m saying it’s a trap. and don’t get me started on the "local brands" section. it’s just stuff made in china with samsun’s name tacked on. like they’re trying to trick tourists into thinking they’re supporting the community. they’re not. but hey, at least the air conditioning works.

data-wise, here’s what you should know. rent in samsun is dirt cheap compared to istanbul or ankara. a one-bedroom apartment near the market goes for about $300-$500 a month. not bad for a city that’s like 20 minutes from the black sea. the job market? it’s going. tourism is up, so there are more hostels and budget cafes popping up. but if you want something stable, you’re out of luck. most jobs are in fishing or construction, which are fine but not thrilling. and the weather? yeah, it’s hot. like, literal scorching. but then again, you’re only a bus ride away from a lake where people swim in jeans because"modesty first."

i’ve overheard some wild stuff while wandering these markets. one vendor told me a rumor that the samsum mall used to have a secret underground parking level reserved for people who buy their alcohol directly from the owner. i don’t know if it’s true, but i’m 80% sure some guy named빠른 is making 50 tk bottles of smuggled wine down there. another local warned me about the daisy fields outside the city. they say it’s not just daisies-it’s also a mini rave scene at night. kids blasting thai pop music while wearing cargo shorts that belong to someone who hasn’t showered in six months. i’m not sure if i belief it, but i did see a blurry video of a pink dalmation running through a field this morning. maybe that’s evidence.

the people here are weirdly attached to their pets though.* you’ll see dogs dressed as minions, cats riding motorcycles (they’re not owners, just hitchhiking), and one guy who tried to sell me a parrot that could imitate my phone’s ringtone. it didn’t work. the parrot just stared at me and occasionally peeked out of its cage. accused me of being a liar. classic.

if you’re thinking of shopping here, do it. but bring layers. even in summer, the markets make you feel like you’re standing in a glacier. and if someone offers you free dried figs, take them. they’re good. cheap. and probably cursed. link to samsun reddit for more local gripes. check out tripp advice if you want to avoid being sold overpriced pepper. and if you’re really desperate for a designer vibe, samsun mall has that luxury feel, though i wouldn’t say it’s worth your time unless you’re into random neon LED signs.

don’t forget the weather apps. mine kept telling me i was in a sauna yesterday. turns out, the black sea is 10 minutes away, and it’s like a giant glass of ice. you can drive there, swim, and then come back to the chaos of samsun. the contrast is real. also, if you hear someone say"the market is burning," run. it usually means mehmet’s apricots are on fire. again.

i’ll end by saying this: samsun’s shopping is like a choose-your-own-adventure book. one page is endlessly authentic chaos, the next is climate-controlled consumerism. pick your poison. but if you do both? you might end up in a sterile mall corridor, sweating through a $20 scarf and wondering if the apricot vendor’s opinion on the weather actually matters. probably not. but it’s still a good story.

(images here: rock formation on water, daisies in the field)

embed link 1
embed link 2
embed link 3

You might also be interested in:

About the author: Lucas Grant

Curious about everything from AI to Zoology.

Loading discussion...