São Paulo: Concrete Jungles and Pastel Dreams (Don't @ Me)
okay, so. i’m back. from são paulo. and i’m… processing. it’s a lot. like, a lot a lot. i’m a botanist, right? i’m supposed to be all about quiet observation, the delicate unfolding of a fern frond, the subtle scent of damp earth. são paulo is… not that. it’s a sensory assault in the best, most chaotic way possible.
I just checked and it's simmering, like a pot of something vaguely spicy left unattended on a stove. The air hangs heavy, a humid blanket clinging to everything. Feels like thirty degrees, give or take, and the humidity is doing its thing. I’m pretty sure my hair has achieved sentience and is plotting its escape.
I was there for a conference - something about urban ecosystems and the surprising resilience of plant life in concrete environments. ironic, right? because the city itself feels like it’s constantly on the verge of… something. a breakdown? a breakthrough? who knows.
I spent most of my free time wandering. just wandering. getting hopelessly lost in the Vila Madalena neighborhood. the street art there is insane. seriously. it’s not just murals; it’s entire buildings transformed into canvases. I tried to sketch some of it, but my skills are… lacking. let’s just say my sketchbook is now mostly filled with frustrated scribbles and the vague outline of a pigeon.
Someone told me that the best way to experience Vila Madalena is to just follow the music. apparently, there’s always some band playing somewhere, spilling out onto the streets. i didn’t find a band, but i did find a tiny, hole-in-the-wall pastelaria. pastel de palmito, people. life-changing. seriously. you need to try it. check out some reviews on Yelp: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=pastelaria&find_loc=São+Paulo,+SP.
I also stumbled upon this amazing little antique shop. crammed floor to ceiling with vintage cameras, old maps, and dusty records. the owner, a tiny woman with a mischievous twinkle in her eye, kept offering me strong coffee and cryptic advice. “Look for the stories,” she said, “the objects remember.” deep, right? I bought a postcard of the Museu de Arte de São Paulo (MASP) - it’s a brutalist masterpiece, by the way - and a slightly chipped teacup.
I overheard some serious gossip at a cafe in Jardins. Apparently, there’s a hidden speakeasy behind a laundromat. something about a password and a secret knock. i didn’t find it, but it gave me something to look for next time.
“They say if you ask the right questions at the Mercado Municipal, the vendors will tell you the city’s oldest secrets. But be warned, they don’t give them away easily.”
I spent an afternoon at the Parque Ibirapuera. it’s a massive green space in the middle of all the concrete. a welcome respite. i even saw a capybara! a capybara! in são paulo! it was just chilling by the lake, completely unfazed by the crowds.
If you get bored, Campinas and Santos are just a short drive away. I didn't make it out there, but I heard they're worth a visit.
I’m still trying to process everything. the noise, the smells, the sheer energy of the place. it’s overwhelming, but in a strangely exhilarating way. I’m already planning my return trip. next time, i’m going to learn some portuguese. and find that speakeasy. and eat approximately one million pastéis.
Oh! and a local warned me about the traffic. apparently, it’s legendary. like, biblical. so, yeah, plan accordingly. you can check out some travel tips on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Tourism-g300923-Sao_Paulo_State-Vacations.html.
Also, if you're into street food, check out this forum: https://www.lonelyplanet.com/forum/brazil/sao-paulo/best-street-food-in-sao-paulo. Seriously, the food scene is incredible.
Okay, i’m going to go lie down now. my brain needs a reboot.