Sofia: Rain, Rumors, and Really Weird Street Art
okay, so i’m pretty sure i’m running on fumes and lukewarm coffee. 8181847… seriously, what even is that number? it just popped into my head. and 1760197502? feels like a bad dream. i landed in Sofia yesterday, and honestly, it’s… intense. the air smells like damp stone and something vaguely floral, like someone’s grandma’s attic. the weather? i just checked and it's...there right now, hope you like that kind of thing. 13.03°C, 83% humidity, pressure 1010. feels like 12.56. it’s clinging to you, you know?
I’m staying in this tiny Airbnb near Vitosha Boulevard - it’s basically a converted storage room, but the landlord, Dimitri, is a legend. He keeps offering me shots of rakija, which is… an experience. Let’s just say it’s not for the faint of heart. He told me someone told him the building used to be a communist-era shoe factory. wild, right?
I spent the afternoon wandering around the city center. It’s a chaotic mix of ancient Roman ruins, Soviet-era architecture, and this insane amount of street art. Like, seriously insane. It’s not the polished, Instagram-friendly kind of art. It’s raw, angry, and often deeply unsettling. I saw one mural of a giant, weeping *lion - it gave me the chills. I overheard a group of students talking about a hidden courtyard filled with graffiti, supposedly a secret meeting spot for underground artists. They said it’s near the National Theatre, but it’s really hard to find.
I checked Yelp and TripAdvisor - apparently, the Mehana restaurant is a must-try. Someone told me that their shopska salad is legendary, but also that the service can be… slow. I’m leaning towards ordering pizza. Easier.
Speaking of locals, if you get bored, Plovdiv is just a short drive away. Apparently, it’s got even more ancient ruins. Dimitri also mentioned that if you’re feeling adventurous, there’s a black market near the Central Market Hall - but he wouldn’t tell me exactly where. Just… be careful. He winked. Classic Dimitri.
I stumbled across this tiny little cafe called Kafana - it’s tucked away on a side street and smells like cardamom and burnt sugar. The owner, a woman named Elena, was pouring me coffee like it was liquid gold. She kept saying, "Enjoy, enjoy! Life is short!" which, honestly, is pretty solid advice. I tried to ask her about the street art, but she just smiled and pointed vaguely towards the Alexander Nevsky Cathedral.
I’m starting to think Sofia is a city that reveals itself slowly, like a stubborn, complicated puzzle. It’s not always pretty, and it’s definitely not always comfortable, but there’s something undeniably captivating about it. I’m going to check out the Boyana Church tomorrow - apparently, it’s got some seriously impressive medieval frescoes.
I’m also trying to track down some of the more obscure street art locations. I found a forum online where people are sharing tips - it’s called ‘Sofia Walls’ - pretty self-explanatory, really. https://www.sofiawalls.com/
Seriously, the humidity is a thing. It’s like wrapping yourself in a wet blanket. And the rain… it just keeps coming. But you know what? I kind of like it. It adds to the atmosphere. I heard that the best place to grab a strong coffee is at Coffee Lab* - they roast their own beans. https://www.coffeelabs.bg/
Okay, I need to go. My eyelids are starting to feel like lead. Dimitri just brought me another shot of rakija. Wish me luck.
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