spray can diaries: surviving bandar abbass' 94% humidity

okay, so i'm in bandar abbass. not exactly the first place you'd think of for a street art pilgrimage, but hear me out.

i've been roaming this port city for three days now, and let me tell you, the air is so thick you could chew it. i just checked and it's... 14.98 degrees Celsius, humidity at 94%. what even is that? my paint's drying slower than a snail on a salt flat. but weirdly, it's given my colors this sick, bleeding effect that's kinda perfect for the mood here. the pressure's sitting at 1013 hPa, which i guess is normal, but my ears pop when i go up the old lighthouse. anyway.

i landed here thinking i'd find some blank walls, but bandar abbass is a maze of pastel-colored buildings, rusty fishing boats, and streets that smell like diesel and spices. it's a working port, not a tourist trap, which is exactly why i love it. there's a rawness here that you don't get in those instagram-ready places. you feel the history in the cracked tiles and the salt-eaten metal.

i spent the morning wandering the bazaar, which is less about souvenirs and more about bolts of fabric, stacks of dried limes, and dudes arguing over the price of fish. i managed to snag a can of cheap spray paint from a back-alley hardware store-no questions asked, which is always a good sign. the guy said, "just don't paint the military checkpoint." noted.

now, about those neighbors: if you get bored, the desert town of kerman is just a four-hour drive north, or you could hop a boat to the stark islands of the persian gulf. either way, you're not exactly stuck. i'm seriously considering a day trip to the ancient portuguese castle on qeshm island-apparently it's a ghost town with mad views. might be a good spot for a mural.

speaking of ghosts, i've been hearing weird whispers about this place. someone told me that the best chai in town is at a hole-in-the-wall near the fish market, but the owner supposedly hates tourists with cameras. also, i heard that the humidity isn't natural-it's because the city sits in a natural amphitheater that traps sea mist. sounds like nonsense but it explains why my gear feels like it's sweating.

then there's the food. oh man, the food. i had the most amazing grilled fish at a place called "milad" (i think). they serve it with a heap of herb salad and fresh flatbread. i tried to take a photo but the cook waved me off-something about not wanting the food to get cold. still, i got a shot:

the salad was fresh, tangy, cut through the humidity. perfect.

along the waterfront, the sunsets are insane. i found a quiet spot by some abandoned cranes and set up my sketchbook. the sky turned orange, purple, the silhouettes of boats against the light-i almost forgot about the paint fumes. someone walking by said, "you're not from around here, are you?" i said no, and he told me a story about how the sea used to be full of dolphins, but now it's just container ships. made me wonder what i'm actually doing here, tagging walls that'll probably get painted over tomorrow.

anyway, a few gems from the grapevine:

that wall by the fish market? yeah, the owner's a tough cookie but if you catch him at sunset with a cup of chai, he might let you tag it. just don't use red-he hates red. - old man at the tea stall

the humidity's great for your skin, terrible for your soul. and your spray caps. bring extra ones. - a local graffiti writer who's now working as a boat mechanic

if you're looking for inspiration, go to the cemetery at night. the shadows are long and the wind carries secrets. - a random kid who sold me a bootleg cd

i'm not sure about the cemetery thing, but i did check out some potential spots. the abandoned textile mill on the outskirts is a goldmine-huge brick walls, broken windows, graffiti from the 70s. it's eerie, but perfect. i'll hit it tomorrow, weather permitting. the forecast says more of the same: 15°C, 95% humidity, maybe a drizzle. great.

oh, and i stumbled upon a community of backpackers in a hostel called "nomad's rest". they have a bulletin board with tips: hiking in the nearby mountains, scuba diving spots, and a warning about the police who crack down on unlicensed tours. here's a link i found useful: Iran Travel Forum's Hormozgan section. also, for food reviews, this Yelp list (warning: sparse). and of course, TripAdvisor's activities for the touristy stuff.

i've been snapping photos too. the light here is diffused, moody. the bird on a wire shot i got actually fits the vibe-lone bird on a telephone line against a grey sky. it's like the city's soundtrack.

anyway, i'm running out of paint and patience. but bandar abbass has a grip on me. it's not trying to be charming, it just is. and that's rare.

i'll leave you with this: if you ever find yourself in this humid, salty corner of the world, look beyond the shipping containers. there's art in the decay, and stories in every alley. just watch your step, keep your cans capped, and maybe bring a dehumidifier for your sketchbook.

peace out.

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