spray can shenanigans in asunción's heat dome
so i just stumbled into asunción with my spray cans and a severe case of wanderlust. the moment i exited the airport, the heat enveloped me like a wet blanket. i just checked and it's... 40.18 degrees celsius right now, and it feels like 47.18? yeah, that's the official feel, but it feels like i'm being slow-cooked. the humidity's at 43%, so it's not muggy, but the sun is relentless.
i'm a street artist, passin' through, lookin' for walls to leave my mark. i heard through the grapevine that the police here are okay with murals as long as they're not tags, but don't quote me - that was from a guy who might've been three cerveszas deep. someone on yelp warned about "buff squads" that erase new art within hours, so i gotta be quick.
first things first, i needed to get my bearings. i pulled up this map to show you the territory:
asunción's a sprawl of concrete and color. i'm crashing in a hostel near the centro, where the walls are already tellin' stories.
neighbors - if the city walls lose their appeal, you can hop a bus to clorinda, argentina in a couple hours, or even head to the pantanal for some wild nature. but i'm here for the urban canvas.
i linked up with a local artist, fatty, who's been in the game for years. he schooled me: "avoid the historic zone, they'll toss you in jail. but around mercado 4, it's a playground." he also mentioned a sick spot at 3439389 calle something - i think he garbled the address, or maybe it's a code. i scribbled 3439389 in my notebook.
we kicked it with some tereré, the cold herbal tea that's a lifesaver in this 40-degree oven. the temp_min is 36.73, so nights might cool down a bit, but still warm.
fatty spilled the tea: "i heard that there's this crew that paints numbers on walls as markers. 3439389 and 1600057911 are their tags. but that's just a rumor." i started noticing those numbers everywhere - spray-painted on alleyways, scratched into benches. what's the deal?
we wandered through barrio obrero, where the graffiti is next-level. i caught this sight:
those buildings look like they've weathered a hundred summers. perfect for a large-scale piece.
then, in a quiet square, i saw this:
a grand building with palm trees - i dreamed of painting a giant face on it, but security was tight. maybe next time.
i needed a spot fast. we found a blank wall behind a fruit market. i started preppin' my cans, but the heat was no joke. feels like 47.18, and i'm wearing a respirator and black clothes. i had to stop every five minutes to gulp water.
a local lady came out and offered me a glass of water. "the heat is cruel," she said. i asked about the numbers 3439389 and 1600057911. she just shrugged and said, "it's the will of the universe." thanks, grandma.
i finished my piece - a sun with a frown, mocking the weather. a small crowd gathered, some took pics. one dude offered me cash, but i was like, nah, it's for the culture.
i've been reading reviews on tripadvisor. one user wrote: "asunción is hot, but the street art makes it bearable." another on yelp said: "best empanada joint is el centro, but it's spicy." i found that spot, and it was fire. the owner gave me the wifi password: 1600057911. i laughed, asked if that was his birthday. he said, "no, it's just random."
as dusk settled, the temp dropped to 36.73. still hot, but the breeze helped. i climbed to the hostel roof with a beer, watching the city lights flicker.
i keep thinkin' about those numbers. 3439389 and 1600057911 - are they coordinates? a phone number? a secret code for the art scene? i might never know.
for anyone comin' here, here's some intel:
- bring lots of water and sunblock. seriously, 40 degrees is no joke.
- check out the street art in barrio jara and obrero.
- for grub, hit the mercados for cheap eats.
- here are some links: Asunción Street Art Facebook Group for the latest spots. Reddit's Asunción Community for local tips. Hostel recommendation on Hostelworld where i stayed. And this TripAdvisor page for general attractions.
oh, and i almost forgot - i saw these cats chillin' on a red car:
even the cats are living the high life in this heat.
so yeah, asunción is a trip. it's hot, it's gritty, it's full of stories on walls. i left my mark, and now i'm movin' on. but i'll be back, maybe when it's cooler. or not. the heat is part of the vibe.
i just checked and it's... still 40 degrees, hope you like that kind of thing.
You might also be interested in:
- https://topiclo.com/post/lost-in-the-chill-of-kirkenes-a-vintage-coat-adventure
- https://topiclo.com/post/columbus-georgia-where-the-river-meets-weird-vibes
- https://topiclo.com/post/antigua-guatemala-cobblestones-coffee-and-the-ghost-of-a-volcano
- https://topiclo.com/post/where-the-kids-at-ndjamena-afterschool-chaos
- https://topiclo.com/post/amsterdams-damp-embrace-a-drummers-perspective-and-a-whole-lot-of-rain