Spraying Dreams in Chandigarh: A Street Artist’s Messy Journal
i landed in chandigarh with a backpack full of spray cans and a head full of nonsense. this city, all concrete and grids, was supposed to be a sleepwalk through le corbusier's dreams, but i found my own kind of chaos on the walls. i just checked and it’s sitting at 25.93°C right now - just the right amount of heat to make the paint dry without that annoying drip. humidity’s at a dry 24%, so my lungs don’t feel like they’rebreathing soup. perfect for laying down lines without the drip nightmare.
i spent the first day wandering the sectors, trying to decode the numbering system that feels like a giant sudoku. *Sector 34 is where the walls talk louder - massive pieces, some legal, some not. i heard that the cops turn a blind eye after 10 pm if you keep it low-key. someone told me there’s a hidden courtyard behind the old bus depot where you can go all out. that rumor turned out to be true, and i spent a night tagging the side of a warehouse that looks like a dinosaur skeleton. the owners? they actually liked it. go figure.
the real treasure, though, is the Rock Garden. i’m not talking about some manicured park; this is a sprawling, 40-acre junkyard of mosaics made from broken plates, tiles, and who knows what else. Nek Chand started it in secret in the 50s, and now it’s a massive labyrinth of concrete sculptures. i could’ve spent weeks there, just scraping paint off the walls to see the original graffiti that’s been covered by his art. there’s a Tripadvisor page that’s full of tourists calling it “whimsical” - if you want the official lowdown, check it out: TripAdvisor - Rock Garden. i also overheard a bartender at a nearby bar say that the best time to visit is early morning when the light hits the glass shards and you can actually see your own reflection in a hundred pieces.
after that, i headed to Sukhna Lake. it’s not exactly a street art spot, but the wind off the water keeps the spray can from clogging. plus, there’s a row of food stalls that serve the most outrageous chole bhature. i heard from a college kid that the stall right next to the giant video screen in sector 17 has the strongest tea this side of the border. might be just gossip, but i tried it and my nerves sang. if you’re looking for a caffeine kick, Yelp has a few reviews: Yelp - Coffee Culture. it’s a decent spot to plot your next wall, with wifi that doesn’t suck.
the art community here is small but tight. there’s a collective called “Wall熟练” (i probably misspelled that) that meets every first friday at a hidden studio near the botanical gardens. they’re a mix of locals and expats, and they don’t bite. i got invited to a paint jam, and we bombed a massive wall behind a school (with permission, thank you very much). the piece was a mashup of le corbusier’s sketches and indian god motifs - cheesy? maybe, but the kids loved it. if you’re in town, check their Instagram for pop-up events. also, a local blog, Chandigarh Art Pulse, always has the scoop on upcoming shows: Chandigarh Art Pulse. it’s like the grapevine, but digital.
there are a couple of things you should know before you start spraying. first, stay hydrated - the sun will melt you by 11 am if you’re not careful. second, paint early morning or after 5 pm to avoid the worst of the UV. third, always carry a spare can; you never know when a friend will “borrow” yours and then vanish. also, the humidity might be low, but the wind can be sneaky and blow overspray onto old ladies walking their poodles. not a good look. i learned that the hard way.
oh, and the neighbors? if you get bored, himachal is just a short drive away, with its mountain air and tighter communities. i took a day trip to shimla and found a dope wall near the old mall road that’s been calling my name since. the vibe there is more “tourist trap” but the walls are less policed. also, amritsar’s golden temple is only a couple hours west, and the food there will ruin you for any other cuisine. if you need a break from the concrete, head to the kheesar* farms on the outskirts for some fresh air and maybe a free mango if you’re nice.
to wrap this ramble up, chandigarh is a weird mix of rigid planning and organic mess. it’s the kind of place where you can stand on a perfectly straight avenue and then turn a corner to find a crooked alley full of peeling posters and street vendors. i left a few cans behind, and i’ll probably be back. until then, keep your caps tight and your eyes on the walls.