Srinagar: Where the Dal Lake Whispers Secrets (and My Drumsticks Got a Little Damp)
okay, so. srinagar. i’m still kind of processing it, honestly. i just got back, and my brain feels like a tangled snare drum roll. i’m a touring session drummer, you see, and usually i’m bouncing between sterile hotel rooms and echoing concert halls. this… this was different.
I’m here because my band’s guitarist, bless his chaotic soul, decided he needed “spiritual recharge” and booked us a gig in Kashmir. I was skeptical, to say the least. But wow. Just… wow. The air smells like wet earth and something floral i can’t quite place. i just checked and it’s hovering around 18 degrees celsius right now, feels like 17. a bit chilly, but the sun’s doing its best.
First thing: the houseboats on Dal Lake. seriously. it’s like living in a floating dream. i stayed on one called ‘Shikara Paradise’ - a bit cheesy, i know, but the chai was incredible. i found it on TripAdvisor, and the reviews were… well, mixed. someone told me that the owner, Mr. Farooq, is a bit of a character, but he makes a mean cardamom tea. i can confirm. he definitely is a character.
I spent most of my time wandering around, just soaking it in. The old city is a maze of narrow lanes, overflowing with shops selling everything from saffron to embroidered shawls. I got completely lost, multiple times. It’s a good thing i’m used to navigating crowded stages, because those lanes are packed.
Here’s a pro-tip for drummers (and anyone else who appreciates a good rhythm): the sound of the shikaras gliding across the lake is amazing. Seriously, the gentle lapping of the water against the wooden hulls, the calls of the vendors… it’s a natural percussion section. I was practically composing beats in my head the whole time.
I stumbled upon a little tea stall near the Hazratbal Shrine. The owner, a wizened old man with twinkling eyes, gave me some seriously cryptic advice. “The lake remembers,” he said, stirring my chai. “Listen closely, and it will tell you its stories.” I’m not sure what that means, but it stuck with me.
Speaking of stories, overheard some gossip at a local restaurant (Yelp says it’s called ‘Ahdoos’ - check it out: https://www.yelp.com/biz/ahdoos-srinagar). Apparently, there’s a legend about a hidden treasure buried somewhere on one of the islands in the lake. Drunk advice, probably, but it added to the mystique.
“They say a Mughal emperor hid his jewels before fleeing. Some say the lake guards them still.”
“Don’t trust the boatmen who offer to take you to ‘secret spots.’ They’ll just want more money.”
“The best kashmiri rogan josh is at my auntie’s house. You’ll have to ask around for the address.”
If you get bored, Jammu and Leh are just a short drive away. I didn’t have time to explore them this trip, but i’m already planning a return.
My gear list for this trip was surprisingly minimal:
My drumsticks (obviously)
A waterproof bag (the lake is… damp)
A good pair of walking shoes (those lanes are no joke)
A phrasebook (my Urdu is… nonexistent)
A journal (to capture all the weird and wonderful things i’ve seen)
I also checked out some local art - there’s a thriving street art scene in Srinagar, which was a pleasant surprise. You can find some cool murals near the Polo View market. https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attractions-g306842-Activities-Srinagar_Kashmir_Region.html
Honestly, srinagar got under my skin. It’s chaotic, beautiful, and a little bit unsettling all at the same time. It’s not a place you just see; it’s a place you feel*. And i’m already missing it. I’m definitely going back. Maybe i’ll even learn some Urdu. Or at least how to properly navigate those lanes without getting hopelessly lost.
For more info on visiting Kashmir, check out this local tourism board: https://kashmirvillages.com/
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