Surat, You Weird Little Gem (and My Quest for the Perfect Chai)
okay, so surat. i didn’t plan to end up in surat. honestly, it was a last-minute detour after a gig in mumbai fell through - touring life, right? - and i figured, hey, why not? i’d heard whispers, mostly from other musicians, about the textile scene and the street food. and let me tell you, the whispers were… mostly accurate.
I’m a session drummer, you see. Been pounding skins for… well, longer than I care to admit. It’s a life of airports, dodgy hotel rooms, and occasionally, surprisingly good chai. And surat? Surat’s chai game is serious. I’ve been on a mission, a quest, a full-blown pilgrimage to find the perfect cup. It’s been… intense.
The weather here is… interesting. I just checked and it's a humid blanket clinging to you, even when you're standing still. Twenty-six point five seven degrees, they say. Feels like it too. I’m sweating just thinking about it. I’m not complaining, though. Beats a drizzly london any day.
I’ve been crashing at this little guesthouse near *Dumas Beach. It’s… rustic. Let’s just say the plumbing has character. But the owner, Mrs. Patel, is a sweetheart. She keeps trying to feed me so much food. I swear, she thinks I’m a bottomless pit. I overheard her telling another guest that the beach is haunted, but it’s probably just the heat playing tricks on her. Still, it’s a pretty spot, especially at sunset. You can check out some reviews on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g308007-d163278-Reviews-Dumas_Beach-Surat_Gujarat.html
Speaking of locals, if you get bored, Vadodara and Ahmedabad are just a short drive away. I’m thinking of taking a day trip to Vadodara - heard they have some amazing museums.
I’ve been wandering around the textile markets - seriously, the sheer scale of it is mind-blowing. Mountains of fabric everywhere. I even picked up a ridiculously bright scarf. Don’t judge. It’s for my mom. She loves bright things. I’m trying to find a decent tailor to make me a kurta, but so far, no luck. Yelp has some recommendations, though: https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=tailor&find_loc=Surat%2C+Gujarat%2C+India
“Apparently, the best chai in the city is at this tiny stall near the clock tower. But you have to go before 7 am, or you’ll miss it. And don’t even think about asking for sugar.”
That’s what a very serious-looking man with a handlebar mustache told me. I’m taking that as gospel. I’m setting my alarm.
I’ve also been scoping out the street food scene. Oh. My. God. The dhokla is insane. And the fafda? Forget about it. I’m pretty sure I’ve gained five pounds in the last three days. Worth it. Absolutely worth it. Someone told me that the food stalls near Sara Market are the best, but be prepared to haggle.
I’m trying to find some decent live music here. It’s proving… challenging. Most of the bars seem to play Bollywood remixes. Not exactly my vibe. I did find a little open mic night at a cafe called The Brew Room. It was… interesting. A lot of aspiring singers and poets. I might drop by again, just to support the local scene. You can find them on Facebook: https://m.facebook.com/TheBrewRoomSurat/
My gear list for this trip is pretty minimal:
My drumsticks (obviously)
Noise-canceling headphones (essential for surviving airport delays)
A universal adapter (because, you know, different plugs)
A phrasebook (my Hindi is… rusty)
A serious craving for chai
Pro-tip: Learn a few basic Hindi phrases. It goes a long way. And be prepared to be stared at. I’m a tall, pale woman with bright pink hair. I stand out. A lot. But people are generally friendly. Just… be aware of your surroundings. And always, always negotiate the price before you buy anything.
I’m off to find that elusive perfect chai. Wish me luck. And if you’re ever in *Surat, hit me up. I’ll point you in the direction of the best dhokla* in town. And maybe, just maybe, we can find that perfect cup together. Check out some local forums for more tips: https://www.indiamike.com/india/gujarat/surat/