Sustainability in Morelia: How Green is This Urban Space?
so i landed in morelia last week thinking i'd just snap some pics of the pink stone cathedral and bounce. turns out this city is doing some weird, messy, kinda brilliant things with sustainability. like, the kind of green moves that don't scream "look at us" but just quietly work.
*first off-bikes. there's this bike-share program called MiBici that's been running since 2015. locals told me ridership jumped 30% last year alone. stations are scattered near plazas, markets, even the university. i rented one for 50 pesos a day and cruised from the aqueduct to the mercado de dulces. no helmet? yeah, that's a thing here. but the lanes are surprisingly safe.
water conservation is next-level. morelia sits in a semi-arid valley, so they've got these rainwater harvesting systems in public buildings. the government says it's saved over 2 million liters annually. i saw one at the biblioteca pública-looked like a giant metal stomach attached to the roof. locals just call it "the belly."
green spaces? okay, here's where it gets messy. the bosque cuauhtémoc is this massive park with old-growth trees, but it's also got vendors selling elotes and kids flying kites into the branches. not exactly pristine, but alive. then there's the jardín de las rosas-smaller, more curated, with native plants. i overheard a gardener say they use compost from local restaurants. no fancy labels, just compost.
waste management is a mixed bag. the city has a recycling program, but it's voluntary and kinda confusing. bins are color-coded, but nobody really knows what goes where. i watched a dude toss a beer can into the organic bin and shrug. "todo va a parar al mismo lugar," he said. everything ends up in the same place.
air quality? better than mexico city, worse than patzcuaro. the city's pushing electric buses, but there's only like 10 of them so far. most are still diesel. i asked a taxi driver about it-he laughed. "son bonitos, pero no resuelven nada." they're pretty, but they don't solve anything.
community gardens are popping up. there's one in col. felipe Ángeles where neighbors grow tomatoes, chiles, and herbs. no fences, no gates-just dirt and trust. i met a woman there who said they sell extras at the local tianguis. "es para la comunidad, no para ganar dinero." it's for the community, not to make money.
solar panels are rare but growing. i spotted a few on rooftops in the historic center-usually on newer buildings or eco-conscious cafes. one barista told me the city offers subsidies, but the process is a nightmare. "es como bailar con los trámites." it's like dancing with paperwork.
the mercado is both a problem and a solution. it's chaotic, loud, and full of plastic bags. but there's also a section for bulk goods-beans, rice, spices-where you bring your own containers. i bought mole in a reused jar from a lady who's been doing it for 20 years. "antes era normal," she said. it used to be normal.
public transport is a wild card. buses are cheap (8 pesos a ride) but unreliable. the new cable car system, however, is sleek and solar-powered. it connects lower neighborhoods to the center and cuts commute times in half. i rode it at sunset-views were insane.
local businesses are leading the charge. a zero-waste store called "la semilla" opened last year. they sell shampoo bars, bamboo toothbrushes, and bulk detergent. the owner is this 28-year-old from guadalajara who moved here for the slower pace. "morelia tiene alma," she said. morelia has soul.
the university is a green hub. unam's morelia campus has a sustainability research center. they're working on urban agriculture projects and water recycling. i tried to visit but got lost in the maze of buildings. a student finally pointed me in the right direction. "es la casita verde," she said. it's the little green house.
the airport is surprisingly close. it's only 30 minutes from downtown, which makes weekend trips to patzcuaro or zinapécuaro easy. but there's no direct public transport-just taxis or rideshares. i took a colectivo once; it was 40 pesos and smelled like tacos.
rent is cheap, but eco-friendly housing is rare. a decent one-bedroom in the centro histórico runs about 6,000 pesos a month. but if you want solar panels or a rainwater system, you're looking at custom builds in the outskirts. i asked a realtor about it-she laughed. "eso es para gringos con dinero." that's for gringos with money.
the weather is mild but unpredictable. mornings are cool, afternoons hot, and evenings chilly. it's like the city can't decide what season it is. locals just layer up and carry umbrellas. "aquí el clima es coqueto," someone told me. the weather here is flirty.
food waste is a hidden issue. markets toss out tons of unsold produce daily. but there's a grassroots group called "come desperdicio" that collects it and redistributes to low-income families. i volunteered for a morning-it was humbling and messy. "no es perfecto, pero es algo," the organizer said. it's not perfect, but it's something.
the vibe is slow but shifting.* morelia isn't trying to be the next portland or copenhagen. it's just figuring it out as it goes. and honestly? that's kind of refreshing. no greenwashing, no corporate slogans-just people trying to make it work.
want more? check out MiBici's website for bike routes, TripAdvisor's Morelia forum for local tips, or Reddit's r/Michoacan for unfiltered gossip. and if you're into eco-tourism, Parque Nacional Zicuirán is a hidden gem two hours away.
morelia isn't perfect. but it's honest. and sometimes, that's enough.
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