takamatsu: a dancer's detour through shikoku's unsung rhythms
i'm in takamatsu and my body is still buzzing from the last gig in osaka, but i had to chase this weird feeling that the streets here might hold a new rhythm. the flight from tokyo was a blur of airport coffee and the kind of sleep that's not really sleep. stepping out into the cool 9.94°C air, i felt that familiar buzz - the one that says your body's ready to move even if your brain's still on the tarmac. the weather's doing its thing: 9.94°C, feels like exactly that, humidity at 76% - it's like the air's a damp blanket that never quite soaks in. i checked the pressure: 1016 hPa, whatever that means for my joints. but hey, it's not raining, so i'll take it.
takamatsu's not a huge city, but it's got this layout that begs for exploration. narrow streets that twist like a warm-up routine, and then suddenly you're at the moat of takamatsu castle, water still and reflecting the sky like a mirror. i spent a good twenty minutes just watching the koi, trying to see if they swim in time signatures. the castle's park, tamamo park, is a legit spot for impromptu practice. i found a quiet corner near the stone walls and ran through a few sequences, my sneakers scuffing the ancient stones. nobody batted an eye - i think this city's used to weird tourists doing sun salutations at dawn. if you need a visual, here's the castle moat i was circling:
afternoon called for fuel. i'd heard rumors about takamatsu being the udon capital of japan. someone told me that the best udon is at 'Udon no Morimoto', but i overheard a local in the station saying that place is overrun with tour groups. 'go to kogane udon,' he mumbled, 'the one by the river, but only if you like your noodles chewy and your broth clear.' i took his advice and found a tiny shop with a line of salarymen. the udon was indeed perfect, springy and dunked in a dashi that tasted like the sea. i'm linking the Yelp page because it's actually a hole-in-the-wall that doesn't show up on the main tourist maps: Kogane Udon. the broth was so clean it felt like a reset button for my whole digestive system. after lunch, i strolled through the market and saw fresh sardines grilled over binchotan - i'll be dreaming about that smell for weeks.
later i wandered into ritsurin garden, one of japan's most beautiful strolling gardens. i'm not usually one for manicured landscapes, but this place has a flow that feels choreographed. every path, every pine tree pruned into a curve, it's like moving through a living piece of art. according to TripAdvisor, it's a top attraction, and i get why: Ritsurin Garden. i spent hours there, just listening to water and wind, letting my thoughts settle. here's the view from the tea house:
as a dancer, i'm always scanning for spaces that hum with potential. takamatsu has a surprisingly active underground scene. i heard about a weekly jam at a converted warehouse near the port. the flyer was scribbled in marker: 'tuesdays 8pm, bring your crew, no judges, just love.' i showed up, and the energy was raw - kids breaking, contemporary dancers, even a butoh practitioner. the organizers post updates on a local board: Takamatsu Underground Dance Scene. i ended up freestyling for an hour, my body finally syncing with the city's weird, humid rhythm. it's funny how a place can make you move differently - here, my movements felt more fluid, maybe because of the moisture in the air, or maybe because the city's pace is slower, so you have to fill the space with intention.
when i needed a break from the city's quiet, i hopped on a train to okayama, just an hour away. okayama's got that 'castle town' vibe, and its korakuen garden is stunning. but i also considered matsuyama - the ferry ride over the seto inland sea is short, and matsuyama's castle town has a different tempo. both are perfect day trips if you're feeling stir-crazy. i've linked a few resources for planning those side adventures: Okayama Day Trip Guide and Matsuyama Ferry Schedule.
on my way back from the market, i spotted a cat lounging on a stoop, white and beige, totally unbothered. it was the kind of moment that makes you stop and remember why you travel. i snapped a pic (see below) and felt that little jolt of joy. the cat didn't even flinch when i crouched to say hello. that's takamatsu for you - everything moves at its own pace.
takamatsu isn't a party city, but it's got a depth that creeps up on you. the people are polite but not overbearing. the food is udon, obviously, but also fresh seafood from the port. i had a grilled mackerel set at a tiny izakaya that a local recommended - he said, 'if you like fish, you'll die happy here.' i'm still alive, but i get his point. for more on takamatsu's food scene, check out this guide on Wanderlog. and if you're a dancer looking for spots, the Shikoku Dance Collective has info on workshops across the island. i also popped into a tiny vinyl shop near the station where the owner spins jazz on a vintage turntable - perfect for cooling down after a practice session.
i'm leaving tomorrow, already planning a return. there's something about the way the light hits the castle at dusk, the way the streets smell like soy sauce and salt, the way my body moves here without thinking. maybe it's the humidity, maybe it's the quiet. all i know is, takamatsu slipped under my skin. if you ever find yourself in shikoku, give this place a chance. and maybe bring your dance shoes. the city's waiting for your rhythm.
You might also be interested in:
- https://topiclo.com/post/remote-work-in-barnaul-is-it-a-digital-nomad-paradise
- https://topiclo.com/post/valencia-made-me-spill-coffee-on-my-phone-and-heres-why
- https://topiclo.com/post/masbate-schools-a-messy-rundown-from-a-tired-drummers-notebook
- https://topiclo.com/post/kolkata-chaos-a-tired-travelers-messy-love-letter
- https://topiclo.com/post/pros-and-cons-of-living-in-kisangani-a-messy-guide-from-someone-whos-been-there