Tehran's Echoes: A Drummer's Dizzying Dive

okay, so tehran. where do i even begin? i’m leo, by the way, touring drummer - currently between gigs, which means i’m bouncing around like a pinball. landed here thanks to a weird booking mix-up (long story involving a Persian wedding and a very confused promoter), and honestly? it’s… a lot. a beautiful, chaotic, overwhelming lot.

i just checked and it's drizzling a bit, a sort of persistent, grey dampness that clings to everything. feels like 5.88°c, which is… brisk. i’m used to sweaty venues, not this. the pressure’s 1012, humidity’s 61% - basically, pack a good raincoat and a scarf. seriously.

my first few days were a blur of trying to navigate the traffic (honestly, it’s an art form, a beautiful, terrifying dance of horns and near misses), and getting hopelessly lost in the *bazaars. the smell of spices, the shouts of vendors, the sheer volume of people… it’s sensory overload in the best possible way. i spent a ridiculous amount of money on saffron and pistachios. don't judge.

“Apparently, the Grand Bazaar is where you can still find carpets woven with stories from centuries ago. But be warned, the shopkeepers are persistent. They’ll offer you tea, they’ll tell you tales of their ancestors, they’ll practically wrap you in a rug before you can say ‘no thank you.’”

I’ve been crashing at this tiny guesthouse near Tabiat Bridge. the owner, a lovely woman named Pari, keeps offering me faloodeh (rosewater ice - surprisingly good!). if you get bored, Qazvin and Karaj are just a short drive away, both with their own unique vibes. Pari also gave me some drunk advice about avoiding the northern parts of the city after dark. something about “shadows and whispers.” spooky.

my gear situation is… precarious. my snare drum head cracked on day two. seriously?! i’m trying to find a replacement, but it’s proving difficult. i’ve been relying on a local music shop owner, a guy named Reza, who seems to know everything about everything. he’s been a lifesaver.

Gear List (because, drummer):

Snare drum (currently damaged)
Kick drum pedal (thankfully still functional)
Drumsticks (Vic Firth 5A - always)
Earplugs (essential)
Phrasebook (Persian - still struggling)
A very large scarf (for the drizzle)

“Heard a taxi driver complaining about the new metro line. Said it’s ‘stealing his livelihood, one tunnel at a time.’ Apparently, there’s a lot of grumbling about modernization amongst the older generation.”

I spent an afternoon wandering around Golestan Palace. the architecture is insane - a mix of Persian and European styles. it’s like stepping into a fairytale. someone told me that the palace used to be a hub for political intrigue and secret meetings. adds a certain… atmosphere, you know?

I’m trying to find some decent live music. Pari suggested checking out a jazz club in Darband. apparently, they have a surprisingly good house band. I’ll let you know if it’s worth the trek. I found a few listings on TripAdvisor: https://www.tripadvisor.com/Restaurants-g298205-Tehran.html. Yelp isn’t super helpful here, but I did find a local forum with some recommendations: https://www.tehrantimes.com/.

“A local warned me about the traffic police. Said they’re ‘always looking for an excuse to fine tourists.’ Apparently, even a slightly hesitant turn can land you with a hefty ticket. So, drive carefully… or just take a taxi.”

Honestly, tehran is a city that gets under your skin. it’s chaotic, it’s overwhelming, it’s sometimes frustrating, but it’s also incredibly beautiful and full of life. i’m not sure how much longer i’ll be here, but i’m definitely glad i made the detour. i'm also checking out some local art galleries - maybe I'll find some inspiration for a new drum solo. https://www.irangallery.com/ is a good place to start.

Pro-Tips (from a slightly bewildered drummer):

Learn a few basic Persian phrases. It goes a long way.
Bargain hard in the bazaars. It’s expected.
Be prepared for the traffic. Seriously.
Drink lots of tea. It’s the fuel of tehran.
Embrace the chaos. It’s part of the charm.

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