Tehran's Echoes: A Drummer's Dizzying Dive

okay, so tehran. where do i even begin? i’m leo, by the way, touring drummer - usually bouncing between european festivals, but this time i got a weird gig, a short residency with a local band. 117574… that’s the number they gave me for my visa. feels like a lifetime ago i was filling out forms. 1364178783… that’s probably a bus number or something equally cryptic. i’m still trying to figure it out.

let’s just say it’s… intense. the energy here is thick. like, you can almost taste it. i just checked and it’s drizzling a bit, a sort of persistent, grey dampness that clings to everything. hope you like that kind of thing. it’s 9.14 degrees celsius, feels like 8.14. not exactly beach weather, but hey, i’m used to playing in freezing venues anyway. the pressure’s 1015, humidity’s 66. i’m not a meteorologist, but i’m noting it down for posterity.

my hotel is… rustic. let’s go with rustic. it’s in a neighborhood that feels like it’s constantly buzzing, a million conversations overlapping. if you get bored, Karaj and Rey are just a short drive away, offering a slightly different flavor of iranian life. i spent yesterday wandering around, trying to get my bearings. the architecture is insane - a mix of ancient and modern, traditional and… well, whatever that is. concrete giants looming over intricate tilework. it’s visually overwhelming in the best possible way.

food. oh god, the food. i’ve been living on kebabs and saffron rice. it’s glorious. i stumbled into this tiny cafe near the *Grand Bazaar - seriously, you have to go there. it’s a sensory overload. someone told me that the best dizi (a lamb and vegetable stew) is at a place called “Golestan,” but apparently, you have to elbow your way through a crowd of hungry locals to get a table. i’m not sure i’m brave enough yet. i did find a decent coffee shop though - check out TripAdvisor reviews for recommendations.

“Don’t trust the taxi drivers near Tajrish Square. They’ll quote you triple the fare if they think you’re a tourist.”

that was drunk advice i overheard at a tea house. seemed legit. i’ve been relying on ride-sharing apps, which are surprisingly reliable. the music scene here is… interesting. my bandmates are amazing, incredibly talented, but the gigs are… different. lots of traditional instruments, a lot of improvisation. it’s pushing me outside my comfort zone, which is good, i guess. i’m trying to learn some persian rhythms, but my brain feels like it’s going to explode.

I heard that the National Museum of Iran is a must-see, but i’m still struggling to find the time. there’s so much to explore just wandering around. i spent an hour yesterday watching a group of men playing backgammon in a park. it was mesmerizing. i’m also trying to find some vintage shops. i’m a sucker for a good find. Yelp might have some leads.

“The traffic is a nightmare. Seriously, just accept it and embrace the chaos.”

that’s something a local warned me about. he wasn’t kidding. it’s like a constant, low-level panic attack. but hey, at least it gives me something to drum to. i’m thinking of writing a song about it. “Tehran Traffic Tango,” maybe?

gear list, because why not?

My trusty Ludwig kit (obviously)
Noise-canceling headphones (essential for sanity)
A phrasebook (persian is… challenging)
A good map (google maps is okay, but a paper map feels more… authentic)
A portable charger (because outlets are scarce)
* A sense of humor (absolutely crucial)

pro-tip: learn a few basic persian phrases. even just “hello” and “thank you” will go a long way. and be prepared to haggle. everything is negotiable. i’m also checking out this local forum for more insider tips. it’s a bit overwhelming, but i’m slowly getting the hang of it. tehran is… a lot. but it’s also kind of amazing. i’ll keep you posted.

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