Long Read

The Cost of Living in Farāh: A Drummer's Dirty Budget Breakdown

@Tobias King2/9/2026blog

so i landed in farah chasing some dusty gig, and now i'm trying to figure out if i can afford to eat more than bread and tea. turns out, this place is a paradox-cheap as hell if you're coming from a western city, but brutal if you're used to kabul's chaos. let's break it down like a bad drum solo.


*The Dusty Bazaar

first, the weather. it’s like the sun’s having a midlife crisis-blistering by 10am, then dropping to freezer temps after sunset. perfect for wearing layers that make you look like a walking tent. neighbors? herat’s a short flight away for decent gear, and kandahar’s a 4-hour drive if you need a vibe check. but farāh’s bazaar? that’s where the real survival happens. you can score a decent meal for 100 afghanis ($1.20), but avoid the meat stall near the blue gate-locals whispered it’s been sitting since last week. true story.


The Karez System*

water’s cheap, thank the ancient karez tunnels-500 afghanis ($6) a month for taps that sometimes work. electricity? forget it. 4 hours a day if you’re lucky. i run my drum kit on a generator that costs 3,000 afghanis ($36) a month. worth it for the gigs. speaking of gigs: weddings pay 500 afghanis ($6) a pop. do 5 a month, and you’re basically a millionaire here. but try finding a drum head? good luck. i’m using goat leather and duct tape-call it avant-garde.

categorycost (afghanis)cost (usd)
rent (1br)15,000-25,000$180-$300
utilities (water, generator)8,000-12,000$96-$144
food (monthly)20,000-30,000$240-$360
transport (fuel)5,000-7,000$60-$84
gear (drum skins, etc.)10,000-15,000$120-$180
total58,000-89,000$696-$1068


overheard at a tea stall: ‘farāh’s cheap if you don’t mind eating lentils and living like a ghost.’ another gem: ‘never trust the taxi driver who says ‘i know a shortcut.’ he means ‘i know how to add extra miles.’’ locals also warned me: ‘don’t drink the tap water unless you want to become best friends with a squat toilet.’

links:
- farāh’s underground tunnels
- herat music gear subreddit
- tripadvisor farāh bazaar
- kandahar nightlife forum

so, is it worth it? if you’re a drummer, maybe. if you’re a human? well, it’s raw. it’s real. it’s farāh. and at the end of the day, that beats a ‘vibrant’ city any day.


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About the author: Tobias King

Student of life, taking notes for everyone else.

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