the delhi shuffle: a backpacker's sleepless confession
okay, so i'm in delhi and my body hates me. got here on a overnight bus from varanasi that felt like being stuffed in a sardine can with a ac that only blows hot air. first world problems, i know. i'm crashing in this hostel near chandni chowk that costs less than a movie ticket - 300 rupees a night, can you believe it? the room smells like old curry and desperation, but the wifi password changes hourly, which keeps us on our toes. i just checked the weather app and it's...17.01 degrees outside, with a feels-like of 16.41 - basically, sweater weather but without the cute sweater. in delhi, that's practically winter, so everyone's wrapped in scarves and pashminas, while i'm here with a hoodie from a 2015 concert. hope you like that kind of thing, because i'm freezing my butt off at night and sweating by noon.
the city is a sensory overload on steroids. rickshaws honking like they're in a race, spices hanging in the air so thick you can taste it, cows deciding to nap in the middle of the road like they own the place. it's beautiful and terrifying all at once. i tried to navigate the narrow alleys of old delhi and ended up in a market that sold everything from sequined saris to phone chargers that probably explode. the sheer scale of it all makes my head spin and my wallet cry.
if you look at the map, you'll see i'm smack in the middle of old delhi. those winding streets are a maze, and i get lost every time i step out, but somehow i always find amazing chai for 10 rupees. speaking of streets,
this photo nails the traffic chaos - buses, bikes, cows, people all vying for space. at night,
the city lights up with neon signboards and street food stalls grilling meat that makes your mouth water. and during the day,
the white buildings glare under that harsh indian sun, and you can see the dust in the air.
i've been living off street food, which is a gamble. i heard from this french backpacker that there's a legendary butter chicken place behind jama masjid. someone else told me to avoid the water like it's the plague, so i'm on bottled everything, but my stomach still stages a rebellion daily. for food recs, i've been relying on tripadvisor, but many spots are for tourists with deeper pockets. check out the reviews on TripAdvisor for budget eats, but filter by "inexpensive" - it's a black hole of options. also, Yelp has some solid user reviews for street food, but again, read the recent ones because places open and shut faster than my patience.
if you get bored of delhi's intensity, agra's just a short drive away for the taj mahal - about 3 hours by bus. jaipur's a few hours further for palaces and elephants, but honestly, i'm too tired to move. my feet are voting for a Netflix binge in the hostel, but that's not an option when you're sharing a room with six snorers. last night, the guy from portugal was snoring so loud i thought the roof would collapse.
the hostel common room is where the magic happens. last night, this portuguese guy was showing photos from his trek in the himalayas - made my instant noodles taste like cardboard. then the canadian girl started a heated debate about the best chai wallah: sugary vs. unsweetened. fists were shaken, hearts were broken. it's these little moments that make the chaos worth it.
i tried to use the public bus to save money, but i got on the wrong one and ended up in noida, some suburb. an hour and 20 rupees later, i was back at the hostel, $2 poorer and $2 wiser. someone told me that the delhi metro is actually efficient and cheap - i'll try that tomorrow, if i can wake up before noon. for metro maps and tips, check out the official delhi tourism site.
i also found this great blog, nomadic matt's delhi guide, that lists hidden cafes and free walking tours. saved my bacon yesterday when i needed a cheap coffee that didn't taste like mud. the vibe here is raw and real - no polished tourist traps, just life happening in your face 24/7. i love it, i hate it, i need a nap and maybe a chiropractor.
someone told me that the best time to see the city is at 5am when the fog lifts and the streets are quiet. but i'm not a morning person, so i'll stick to my late-night chai runs and dream of a bed that doesn't squeak. anyway, i should probably stop ranting and try to sleep before the 6am mosque call echoes through my dorm. delhi, you're a mess, but i'm kinda glad i'm here, even if my wallet is lighter and my clothes permanently smell like spices and exhaust fumes. peace out, and don't forget your earplugs.
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