The Local Food Scene in Chengdu: What the Residents Actually Eat (and How Much It Costs to Live Here)

okay, so chengdu. it's… humid. like, walking-through-soup humid. right now it's hovering around 30°C (86°F) and feels like someone's constantly breathing on you. thankfully, you can escape to the mountains - Leshan is only a couple hours away, and Jiuzhaigou is a flight. seriously, a flight.

i’m a touring session drummer, which means i spend a lot of time eating questionable gas station food on the road. but chengdu? chengdu is different. it’s a food city, period. and not in the “instagrammable brunch spots” way. it’s in the “grandmas on street corners making the best dumplings you’ve ever had” way.

let’s be real, i came here for the music scene, but i’m staying for the *mala. seriously, that numbing spice… it’s addictive. i’ve been trying to figure out what people actually eat, beyond the tourist traps. and it’s… complicated.

gear list (aka, what i carry to find the good stuff):

a ridiculously oversized backpack (for drumsticks and snacks)
a translation app (pleco is a lifesaver)
a small notebook (for scribbling down addresses and spice levels)
a healthy disregard for personal space (you gotta get close to the food stalls)
a stomach of steel (seriously, be prepared)


so, what are people actually eating? it’s not all hot pot, though that’s a big one. i’ve noticed a lot of *chuan chuan xiang - basically, hot pot on a stick. it’s cheap, it’s fun, and it’s everywhere. i overheard someone at a bar (the Lost Heaven, if you’re looking for a slightly pricier, but still good, option - https://www.lostheaven.com/chengdu/) saying that the chuan chuan xiang near Sichuan University is the best. i haven’t confirmed, but i’m willing to risk it.

then there’s dan dan noodles. everyone talks about dan dan noodles. and yeah, they’re good. but i’ve had some that were… bland. like, seriously? dan dan noodles are supposed to punch you in the face with flavor. i got a tip from a local (a very intense woman selling tea) to go to a tiny hole-in-the-wall near Jinli Ancient Street (which, honestly, is mostly tourist stuff, but still worth a wander - https://www.tripadvisor.com/Attraction_Review-g298557-d322834-Reviews-Jinli_Ancient_Street-Chengdu_Sichuan.html). she said the old man there makes the real dan dan noodles. i’m still looking for it.

drunk advice (aka, reviews i probably shouldn’t have given):

“don’t bother with the fancy hot pot places. go where the locals are. trust me.”
“if someone offers you rabbit head, just say yes. it’s… an experience.”
“the street snacks are your friend. embrace the chaos.”


okay, let’s talk money. because being a touring drummer doesn’t exactly pay the bills. rent for a decent one-bedroom apartment in the city center is around 3000-5000 RMB (about $410-$680 USD) a month. it’s getting pricier, though. i’ve seen some posts on the Chengdu subreddit (https://www.reddit.com/r/Chengdu/) complaining about rising rents. food is cheap, though. you can eat really well for under 50 RMB ($7 USD) a day if you stick to the street food. jobs? it depends. there’s a growing tech scene, and a lot of opportunities for english teachers. but competition is fierce.

*cost of living (rough estimate, subject to change based on your lifestyle and bargaining skills):

and the tea houses*! oh my god, the tea houses. they’re everywhere. people just… hang out there. drink tea. play mahjong. it’s amazing. i’ve spent hours just people-watching. i found a good one on Yelp (https://www.yelp.com/search?find_desc=Tea+House&find_loc=Chengdu%2C+Sichuan%2C+China) near Wuhou Temple. it’s a bit touristy, but the tea is good and the atmosphere is chill.

look, chengdu isn’t perfect. it’s crowded, it’s polluted, and the language barrier can be frustrating. but it’s real. it’s messy. and the food? the food is worth it. just… be prepared to sweat.

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