The Real Cost of Utilities and Bills in Bucharest (and Why My Landlady Hates Me)
okay, so look. it's raining. not like a gentle drizzle, more like the sky decided to just dump a bucket of water on everything. apparently, it's been like this on and off for a week. which, honestly, is pretty standard for bucharest in… well, most months. you could be sunbathing on the black sea coast - a quick three-hour drive - or stuck under a grey cloud here. it’s a gamble.
anyway, i'm a freelance photographer, which means my income is about as predictable as the weather. and i've been getting hammered with questions about how much it actually costs to live here. everyone sees the cute cafes and the cheap beer, but nobody talks about the bills. so, here's the dirt, straight from someone who almost got evicted for accidentally using too much hot water (long story).
first off, rent. this is the big one. i live in a decent, but slightly crumbling, two-bedroom apartment in *sector 3. it's not fancy, but it's close to everything. i pay around 2800 lei (about $600 USD) a month. you can find cheaper, obviously. like, way cheaper. but you'll probably end up sharing with five other people and battling mold. i've heard horror stories on the Bucharest subreddit. honestly, if you're looking for something really budget-friendly, check out the areas further from the piata universitatii.
now, let's get into the fun stuff: utilities. electricity is… a rollercoaster. in the winter, with the heating on (and you need heating, trust me), it can easily hit 500-700 lei ($100-$150). summer is cheaper, maybe 200-300 lei ($40-$60). gas is mostly for cooking and hot water, so around 100-200 lei ($20-$40) depending on how much you shower (and if your landlady is watching the meter). water is surprisingly cheap, like 50-100 lei ($10-$20). but then there's the salubritate - the garbage collection fee. it's a fixed cost, and it's annoying. about 80-120 lei ($16-$24).
internet is pretty good and affordable. i pay about 70 lei ($15) a month for 500mbps. phone plans are similar. but here's a pro-tip: don't get caught using public wifi. apparently, the security is… questionable. i overheard someone at a cofetarie saying their bank account got hacked after using the wifi at a mall.
okay, let's talk about food. groceries are reasonably priced, especially if you shop at local piete (markets). you can get fresh produce for a steal. but if you're like me and prefer to eat out, it adds up. a decent meal at a restaurant will cost you around 50-100 lei ($10-$20). beer is cheap, like ridiculously cheap. you can get a pint for 10-15 lei ($2-$3). but don't underestimate the power of a mici (grilled minced meat rolls) from a street vendor. they're amazing and cost next to nothing. check out reviews on Yelp Bucharest.
and then there's transportation. the metro is fantastic - clean, efficient, and cheap. a monthly pass is around 50 lei ($10). buses and trams are… an experience. they're crowded, often late, and sometimes smell a bit funny. but they're also cheap. a single ticket is around 1.5 lei ($0.30). taxis are readily available, but make sure they use the meter. uber and bolt are also options.
so, let's add it all up. a rough estimate for monthly expenses:
Rent: 2800 lei ($600)
Utilities: 800-1200 lei ($160-$240)
Internet/Phone: 100 lei ($20)
Food: 1500-2000 lei ($300-$400)
Transportation: 100 lei ($20)
Entertainment/Misc: 500+ lei ($100+)
Total: 5800-7100 lei ($1200-$1500)*
that's a pretty wide range, i know. it depends on your lifestyle. if you're a minimalist who cooks at home and takes the metro everywhere, you can get by on less. if you're a party animal who eats out every night and takes taxis everywhere, you'll spend a lot more. i also haven't included things like health insurance or visa costs.
look, bucharest isn't the cheapest city in the world, but it's also not ridiculously expensive. it's a good value for money, especially if you're coming from western europe or north america. just be prepared for the occasional bureaucratic headache and the unpredictable weather. and for the love of god, don't use too much hot water. my landlady is still giving me the side-eye. you can find more info on TripAdvisor Bucharest.
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