The Real Cost of Utilities and Bills in Riyadh (and Why My Bank Account is Crying)
okay, so. riyadh. it's…hot. like, genuinely feels like someone left a hairdryer on your face 24/7 hot. i’m a touring session drummer, right? usually bouncing between dingy clubs in berlin and slightly less dingy ones in london. figured a gig in saudi would be a nice change of pace, financially speaking. spoiler: it’s complicated.
let’s talk bills. because honestly, that’s what keeps me up at night (when i’m not practicing rudiments, obviously). i landed a month-long residency at this hotel - the Holiday Inn Riyadh Imlayyah (don't judge, it had a drum kit!). the rent itself wasn’t terrible, around 4,500 SAR (about $1200 USD) for a decent-sized room. but then the utilities hit. and oh boy.
first off, electricity. it’s a monster. air conditioning is not optional here. it’s survival. my first bill was… traumatic. 800 SAR ($213 USD). for a month. i nearly choked on my cardamom coffee. apparently, electricity is heavily subsidized, but still. it adds up. i’ve heard whispers from other musicians - mostly filipino bands playing at the Centria Mall - that summer bills can easily hit 1500 SAR. Check out this Reddit thread about Riyadh electricity costs.
water is…cheap. like, ridiculously cheap. maybe 100-200 SAR a month. but internet? that’s where they get you. i’m with STC, which is the main provider, and i’m paying 250 SAR ($67 USD) for a decent speed. it’s reliable, thankfully, because streaming drum lessons is essential.
now, let’s talk about the stuff they don’t tell you. food. groceries are surprisingly affordable if you stick to local markets. i’ve been hitting up the Al-Muzahmiyah Market (apparently, it's a bit of a drive, but worth it) and getting fresh dates and spices for next to nothing. but if you want western food? prepare to weep. a burger and fries at a decent place will set you back at least 60-80 SAR. and don’t even think about ordering avocado toast.
*Overheard Gossip #1: “Dude, seriously, don’t use Careem during peak hours. The surge pricing is insane. Just…walk. Or learn to haggle with the taxi drivers.”
transportation is another killer. taxis are relatively cheap, but they’re not always easy to find. careem and uber are everywhere, but the surge pricing is brutal. i’ve started taking the bus, which is…an experience. it’s clean and efficient, but you need to learn the routes. and be prepared for a lot of staring.
Overheard Gossip #2: “The traffic on King Fahd Road is a nightmare. Like, seriously, avoid it at all costs. Unless you enjoy spending three hours staring at tail lights.”
and then there’s the “fun” stuff. entertainment. riyadh is changing, but it’s still…limited. there are some cool cafes and restaurants popping up, but the nightlife is still pretty tame. i went to a concert at the King Abdullah Financial District (KAFD) - it was alright, but the tickets were expensive. Here's a TripAdvisor list of things to do in Riyadh.
Data Table: Estimated Monthly Expenses (USD)Expense Low End High End Notes Rent $800 $2000 Depending on location and size Utilities $150 $400 Electricity is the biggest factor Internet $50 $80 STC is the main provider Food (Groceries) $200 $400 Local markets are much cheaper Food (Eating Out) $300 $800 Western food is expensive Transportation $100 $300 Careem/Uber surge pricing is a killer Entertainment $50 $200 Limited options, can be pricey Total $1650 $4180 This is a rough estimate, obviously!
Overheard Gossip #3:* “Don’t try to bargain at the big malls. They won’t budge. But at the souks? Go wild. It’s expected.”
look, riyadh isn’t cheap. it’s not as expensive as dubai or london, but it’s definitely not a budget destination. and the constant air conditioning bill is a psychological torment. but hey, the drumming gig is good, the dates are amazing, and i’m only a short flight away from the beaches of the maldives. Check out this Yelp page for Riyadh restaurants. so, you know, swings and roundabouts. just…bring a lot of money. and a really good fan.
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