The Real Cost of Utilities and Bills in Salvador (and Why My Bank Account Cries)
okay, so lemme tell you. salvador. it's… a lot. i'm a freelance photographer, right? chasing light, trying to make rent, the usual. and honestly, the bills here are a sneaky beast. it's not expensive expensive, like new york or london, but it's a constant drip, drip, drip of money leaving your account.
it's currently that thick, humid air that feels like someone's breathing on you constantly. like, you step outside and instantly regret your life choices. but hey, ilha dos frades is only a short ferry ride away, and that beach? worth the sweat. seriously.
so, let's break it down. i'm living in rio vermelho, which is… gentrifying, let's say. it's cool, lots of bars, but rent's creeping up. i snagged a decent one-bedroom for R$1800 a month, which isn't terrible, but it's definitely not 'cheap' anymore. a friend of mine is in barra, and she's paying almost R$3000 for something similar. barra's all the fancy tourists and gated communities, though. Check out some rental listings on Zap Imóveis.
now, the utilities. this is where it gets fun. electricity (energia elétrica) is… unpredictable. bahia has had some serious droughts, and they rely on hydroelectric power. so, when it doesn't rain, prices spike. i'm averaging around R$250-R$400 a month, depending on how much i'm running the AC (which is, let's be real, always). water (água) is usually around R$80-R$120, but again, droughts. they've been doing these rotating water cuts in some neighborhoods, which is… charming. not.
internet. oh, god, the internet. you need it, obviously, for work, for streaming, for complaining about the humidity. i'm with claro, and i'm paying R$120 a month for a decent connection. but it drops out. constantly. it's like a game of 'will my zoom call survive?' Here's a thread on the Salvador subreddit about internet providers.
and then there's the gas (gás). you get those big gas canisters delivered, and they cost around R$70-R$90 each. they last me about a month, maybe a month and a half. phone bill? negligible. i mostly use whatsapp.
but here's the kicker: security. salvador has a reputation, and it's not entirely undeserved. i'm not saying it's a warzone, but you need to be aware of your surroundings. i pay R$150 a month for a basic security system, and honestly, it gives me peace of mind. a local warned me - and i quote - "don't flash your camera around in the Pelourinho at night, unless you want to become part of someone else's photo collection." good advice. TripAdvisor has some safety tips for Salvador.
*food is relatively cheap if you eat like a local. a lanche (snack) from a street vendor will set you back R$5-R$10. a decent meal at a restaurante (restaurant) will be around R$30-R$50. but if you're craving imported cheese or fancy avocado toast, prepare to pay a premium. i overheard some expats complaining at a cafe the other day - "it's impossible to find a decent sourdough bread here!" - honestly, get a pão de queijo and move on.
so, let's tally it up (rough estimates, because everything fluctuates):
Rent: R$1800
Electricity: R$300
Water: R$100
Internet: R$120
Gas: R$80
Security: R$150
*Transportation (bus/uber): R$200
*Groceries: R$500
Total: R$3250*
that's just the basics. doesn't include fun stuff like caipirinhas, samba lessons, or trying to haggle for vintage clothes in the mercado modelo. Yelp has some reviews of restaurants in Salvador.
and the job market? it's… developing. tourism is big, obviously, but competition is fierce. a lot of people are trying to make a living as freelancers or remote workers. it's doable, but you need to hustle. and learn some portuguese. seriously.
look, salvador isn't cheap, but it's not outrageously expensive either. it's just… a constant balancing act. a beautiful, chaotic, frustrating balancing act. and honestly? i wouldn't trade it for anything. except maybe a reliable internet connection.
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