The Safest (and Most Dangerous) Neighborhoods in Rangoon: A Drummer's Perspective (Seriously, Watch Your Gear)
okay, so, lemme tell you. Rangoon. It’s… a lot. I’m Finn, by the way, touring drummer. Been bouncing around Southeast Asia for a few months now, and landed here for a gig with this surprisingly decent Burmese rock band. The humidity is thick. Like, you walk outside and immediately feel like you’re wrapped in a damp towel. It’s been raining on and off for days - that monsoon season is no joke. Feels like the whole city’s breathing heavy.
Anyway, the band’s manager, Zaw, he’s a legend, kept telling me about the neighborhoods. Safety, you know? Gotta be smart when you’re lugging around a snare drum and a bunch of cymbals. He’s got a cousin who’s a taxi driver, and that’s where the real intel comes from.
So, let’s break it down. Zaw says Bahan is pretty chill. Lots of embassies, expats, that kind of thing. Rent’s gonna cost you, though. Like, $400-$800 a month for a decent apartment. That’s insane compared to, say, Chiang Mai. But it’s relatively safe, and you can find decent coffee. Apparently, there’s a little Italian place there that’s not bad. I haven’t checked it out yet, gotta prioritize drum shops first.
Then there’s Kamayut. That’s where the band’s studio is. It’s… lively. Let’s just say. Lots of street food, markets, a real buzz. But Zaw’s cousin, the taxi driver, warned me - “Keep your valuables close, drummer boy. Pickpockets are like flies around sugar.” He wasn’t kidding. I saw a guy get his phone snatched right in broad daylight. It was… unsettling. Rent here is a bit more reasonable, maybe $200-$400, but you’re definitely paying for the… energy.
Now, Dagon Township… that’s a whole different beast. Zaw wouldn’t even mention it for a while. Apparently, it’s got some… complicated history. And some areas are just… not worth the risk. I heard rumors - overheard them at a bar, actually - about petty crime being rampant, and the police not always being… helpful. Let’s just say I’m sticking to Bahan and Kamayut for now.
*Shwelinban Park - Zaw’s cousin said to avoid it after dark. Something about gangs and… well, let’s just leave it at that. Apparently, there was an incident last year involving a tourist and a stolen motorbike. Not a good look.
Botahtaung Pagoda is beautiful, obviously, but keep an eye on your bag. Seriously. I saw a woman get her purse bumped while she was taking pictures. It’s a tourist trap, you know? Easy targets.
Here’s a quick rundown, just for you, my friend. Think of it as my “Rangoon Survival Kit” for musicians (and anyone else, really):
*Drum Case Lock: Seriously. Get a good one. And use it.
*Money Belt: Don’t be a hero. Hide your cash.
*Copies of Passport & Visa: Keep them separate from the originals.
*Local SIM Card: Data is your friend. Google Maps is your savior.
*Learn a Few Burmese Phrases: Even just “hello” and “thank you” go a long way.
*Trust Your Gut: If a situation feels off, it probably is.
Okay, so, data. Zaw mentioned that the average salary for a skilled worker in Rangoon is around $300-$500 a month. Which is… not great. But the cost of food is pretty reasonable, especially if you stick to local places. You can get a killer bowl of noodles for like, $1.50.
I’ve been checking out some local music forums - Rangoon Music Scene - and it seems like there’s a decent underground scene. Lots of talented musicians, but not a ton of opportunities. It’s tough out there.
I also stumbled across this TripAdvisor page for restaurants in Rangoon - Rangoon Restaurants - it’s a bit touristy, but it’s got some decent reviews.
And Yelp? Forget about it. It’s basically a ghost town.
One thing I’ve noticed is that the traffic is absolutely insane. Like, a constant, honking, chaotic mess. You need nerves of steel to navigate those streets. I’m sticking to taxis, mostly.
Oh! And I saw this post on a local Facebook group - Rangoon Expat Group - someone was asking about safe neighborhoods for families. Lots of recommendations for Bahan, unsurprisingly.
Overheard Gossip: “Don’t go near the docks after sunset. Bad things happen there.” - A guy at the bar, nursing a Myanmar Beer.
Drunk Advice: “Just smile. It confuses them. And don’t make eye contact.” - Zaw’s cousin, the taxi driver, after a few too many.
Something a Local Warned Me About:* “The rain… it comes fast. And it doesn’t stop.” - A street vendor selling umbrellas.
Honestly, Rangoon is… complicated. It’s beautiful and chaotic and frustrating and exhilarating all at the same time. It’s not for the faint of heart. But if you’re willing to be a little cautious, and a little open-minded, it can be an incredible experience. Just… watch your gear. Seriously.
Oh, and Kuala Lumpur is a short flight away if you need a break from the humidity. Just sayin'.
Check out this Yelp page for some local shops: Rangoon Shops
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